Ask The Guide

I think you’re on the right track by concentrating on the information being conveyed by the crank-angle sensor. But the problem is more likely to be a stretched timing chain rather than a dud sensor. The V6 engine in your Colorado is notorious for this problem and, when it happens, it throws the camshafts out of synch with the crankshaft. When the crank-angle sensor and the camshaft-angle sensor can’t agree that the positions of the crankshaft and camshafts relative to each other are correct, the problems start.

This lack of synchronisation is one of the things the crank-angle sensor is paid to look for and why it’s limiting engine speed or not allowing the engine to start at all. By clearing the fault code and disconnecting the crank-angle sensor, you’re stopping the error information being sent to the ECU and the ute starts first time (it’s probably taking a camshaft-angle reference when it can’t find the crank-angle information).

Let’s start with the concept of a dealership charging for a problem that is probably a warranty claim in the first place. Warranty repairs shouldn’t cost the owner anything, so the dealership is skating on thin ice in the first place.

But secondly, this doesn’t sound like a problem at all. In fact, I’d say it’s perfectly normal behaviour. What’s happening is that the car’s computer is looking at how much fuel the vehicle has used in the immediate past, and calculating how far you can go on the fuel you have left, at that rate of consumption. When you switch from stop-start running to highway driving, your consumption per 100km falls. When the computer notices this, it recalculates how far you can go with your reduced consumption, and the estimated range on the trip-computer goes up.

Fuel range is the inverse of fuel consumption, when consumption goes down, range goes up. And since the car’s computer models the range based on your recent consumption rate, highway running will usually cause the range to creep up. Eventually the range will plateau and then begin to fall. When you hit the city, the range will begin to fall more quickly. The dealership should have been able to explain this to you rather than threatening to charge for taking a look at it.

The old M20 four-speed transmission wasn’t exactly a sophisticated piece of equipment, but it was a pretty tough thing. In any case, this sounds more like a clutch problem. Wear or damage in the clutch can cause all sorts of difficult shifting, and the big clue here is that it will do so only when the engine is running, not when it’s switched off.

You may find it’s a case of poorly adjusted shift linkages or a damaged shifter, but all the signs point to a broken clutch.

It sounds as though the car has a major computer glitch if it keeps issuing phantom warnings and won’t operate things like the cruise-control or the menu-driven functions. Australia’s consumer laws on this subject are quite clear and compel Haval to fix the problems as part of the factory warranty it offers with the vehicle.

Don’t be tempted to let them get away with this. Make sure the problems have been logged with the dealership and with Haval (in writing) so that the problems will be treated as a pre-existing condition even if the warranty runs out down the track. If Haval refuses to fix a warranty problem, it is in breach of that same consumer law, at which point you can contact the ACCC who will make a judgment that can be legally enforced.

An independent inspection of the vehicle by your state motoring club might be a good thing to have too, as it will prove that an independent body has identified the problems and that they really do exist.

I’d agree that the problem is likely to be something to do with the on-board computer(s) that control the powertrain and other functions. If you’re certain that the engine is not running hot when it claims to be, the cause could be as simple as the sensor is faulty, but it could also indicate a computer problem. The same goes for the power-steering, although an electrical circuit that constantly blows its fuse suggests a short-circuit somewhere in the wiring or connectors.

The code P1299 indicates that the car thinks the cylinder head temperature is too high, while P0118 suggests a problem with the sensor that monitors changes in the engine’s coolant temperature. Either way, this is a brand-new car, so it will be covered by the factory warranty. Make it Ford’s problem, not yours.

The first thing to figure out is what type of smoke it is; oil smoke or fuel smoke. If the smoke is black, then it’s probably excess fuel that is being injected into the engine. If the smoke is a bluish-grey, then it’s likely to be oil smoke. The major causes of oil smoke are worn piston rings or valve guides and their seals. If it’s either of those thing, it will be a fairly major repair bill.

But it would also be worth checking the crankcase ventilation system as this can cause an engine to smoke, too, and is a much simpler fix.

Any vehicle of this age has to be approached on an individual basis. It’s likely to have covered a lot of kilometres by now, so any major (or minor) component could be well past its best.

Any Subaru transmission that doesn’t shift properly or is slow to engage a gear or shudders under acceleration needs to be either investigated further or avoided completely. Don’t forget that the Liberty was all-wheel-drive, so that places extra strain on the transmission as well as making for a more complex arrangement if it does need to be repaired or replaced.

In high-performance Subarus (such as the WRX) the transmission was something of a fuse if the driver got a bit over-enthusiastic, but in models like the Liberty, the four-speed automatic was a sound unit. When test driving the vehicle, make sure there are no thumps or vibrations when the gearbox shifts down, and try to shift gears manually. The gearbox should respond instantly to manual input, without any hesitation or noise.

The first thing to check is the fluid level in the transmission. Consult the owner’s manual for the correct method of doing this (sometimes the engine needs to be running and the transmission at operating temperature, in other vehicles everything needs to be cold, so this is important).

Low transmission fluid can cause all sorts of problems with gear selection, flaring between gears and actually making the vehicle drive, so that’s why this is the first step. If the level (and the condition) of the fluid is fine, then you need to start looking deeper, and a transmissions specialist is probably your best bet there.

The transmission is a sealed system, so any drop in the fluid level suggests a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed or the problem will return.

Beyond that, running a transmission that isn’t behaving properly can cause damage to the unit itself, so continuing to drive the vehicle in this state is not a good idea.

As a commercial vehicle, the 2006 express van was not crash tested by ANCAP when it was released. These days, the van carries a one-star safety rating as a used car, based on real-world crash data.

Fundamentally, the Express is an old design and doesn’t make use of many of the most basic safety features that passenger cars of the day had. The forward seating position also has an effect on crash safety and, if you look at newer van designs, you’ll often see that the front-seat passengers are placed farther back in the vehicle as a result. The bottom line is that there are better choices if crash safety is your major concern.

This is one of those 'how long is a piece of string' questions. It all depends on where the oil leak is coming from and what is involved in fixing it. If it’s a simple loose fitting that can be tightened in a minute or two, then it won’t cost much. But if the leak is coming from a gasket that requires the entire engine to be removed and disassembled to replace, then the cost will be much, much more.

Oil and coolant leaks can emanate from a huge number of locations on a modern engine, Sometimes just finding the source can take longer than actually fixing it. The best approach is to thoroughly clean the engine of all oil and gunk, and then drive it and keep checking until the oil reappears and track it back to the source.