GWM Problems

It sounds as though the car has a major computer glitch if it keeps issuing phantom warnings and won’t operate things like the cruise-control or the menu-driven functions. Australia’s consumer laws on this subject are quite clear and compel Haval to fix the problems as part of the factory warranty it offers with the vehicle.

Don’t be tempted to let them get away with this. Make sure the problems have been logged with the dealership and with Haval (in writing) so that the problems will be treated as a pre-existing condition even if the warranty runs out down the track. If Haval refuses to fix a warranty problem, it is in breach of that same consumer law, at which point you can contact the ACCC who will make a judgment that can be legally enforced.

An independent inspection of the vehicle by your state motoring club might be a good thing to have too, as it will prove that an independent body has identified the problems and that they really do exist.

Plenty of owners of cars (not just Havals) with this type of 'intelligent' cruise-control have complained about it. The problem occurs at highway speeds on any road with a corner on it. At which point, the vehicle decides it's travelling too fast and slows down, sometimes actually applying the brakes. Depending on whether you simply want a comfortable journey or you've just overtaken a B-double, this can be anything from annoying to dangerous.

I've heard reports of Haval dealers having a software upgrade which can be uploaded to the car during a service which eliminates this element of the adaptive cruise-control. It would be worth asking your Haval dealer whether it's available yet.
Some owners have actually resorted to physically covering the front camera so the car no longer knows there's a corner approaching. We definitely don't recommend that as it might interfere with other safety features.

A lot of cars are trimmed with leather these days, but it's also a fact that there's leather and then there's leather. Some is supple and rich and lovely, while some car-makers specify a grade of leather that is still technically a cow's hide, but is of distinctly inferior quality. These cheaper leathers are the ones that tend to get hotter, but it's also true that all leather will get hot if you lock your car and park it in the sun.

There are plenty of seat cover options, but a favourite for those who like their comfort is the good old sheepskin cover. Again, these are available in a range of quality and price-points, but a good set will definitely stay cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

If the problem is getting worse, then there's clearly something deteriorating with either the doors themselves or the rubber seals that keep the air and water out. You could start by visually inspecting the rubber seals. Is there any obvious damage (such as a seat-belt buckle been left hanging out when the door was slammed shut)? Are there any witness marks or visible fretting on the paintwork from any component. Even a stray leaf caught between the door and the rubber can cause a leak, so give the area a good clean and see if that helps.

The door hinges could also be at fault, but I'd be a bit surprised if a car as new as this one has worn hinges already. In the bad old days, this problem was usually fixed by grabbing the window frame part of the door and bending it in slightly to achieve a better seal. That probably won't help you, but keep in mind the car is still under warranty, so make it Haval's problem.

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

The cost can vary depending on what state or territory you live in and in what post-code (regional areas often have lower registration fees than metropolitan areas). That said, according to the QLD Transport Department’s website, that doesn’t apply in the sunshine state.

As such, for a full 12 months of registration, including compulsory third-party insurance on a 2022 GWM Ute, you’re looking at $816.55.

This is a potentially lethal fault as anything amiss with a car’s braking system is a major recipe for disaster. It sounds as though the braking system is applying pressure when you hit the brake pedal, but not allowing the pressure to release when you take your foot off the brake.

If yours was an older car, I’d be suspecting the flexible brake hoses had collapsed internally, allowing the brake fluid to pass through them one way but not return. However, this seems unlikely in a car as new as the one you’ve described. Which leads me to think that perhaps the brake master cylinder is at fault or, perhaps the anti-lock braking system is the culprit as this system controls the flow of fluid to each caliper. Either way, it’s straight back to the dealership for a warranty claim, but I’d be taking the vehicle there on the back of a truck as it really doesn’t sound safe to drive as it is. Driving a car with binding or dragging brakes can very quickly overheat the brake fluid, leading to a complete brake failure with obvious potential results.

If you’re unhappy with the service from your dealership, I would suggest contacting the manufacturer’s customer service division and stating your case. I’d also be asking for a replacement car until yours is fixed.

You’re in a bit of a spot here, Rod, because you want vehicle that can handle beach driving every now and then (so, a four-wheel-drive) but one that will spend the bulk of its time in an urban setting. That means a vehicle with a diesel engine is not your ideal solution, yet the vast majority of four-wheel-drive utes are, indeed, diesel powered.

Diesel is a problem for folks like you because modern diesel engines don’t appreciate being used for short, urban journeys. The fact is, these modern diesels are fitted with diesel particulate filters (DPFs) which aim to clean up the tailpipe emissions. That’s fair enough, but when driven in an urban environment without a good run at highway speeds every few weeks, the DPF can clog up and that’s when the problems – and repairs costs – start.

Beyond that, a diesel can easily cost more to service and maintain over the long term, even if it gets more kilometres per tank than a petrol. You might just find that, in an overall sense, the diesel will be costlier to own and run.

Perhaps a better alternative for you is an SUV with a petrol engine and all-wheel-drive. These won’t have the low-ratios of a four-wheel-drive ute for heavy-duty off-roading, but they should be able to handle loose surfaces like a sandy track down to a fishing spot. The catch is that if you do get an SUV stuck on the beach, you won’t get much sympathy for taking the vehicle out of its depth (literally). Perhaps an older four-wheel-drive with a petrol engine would be your best bet. Look at vehicles like a 2015 to 2017 Toyota HiLux ute which was available with four-wheel-drive and a very handy four-litre petrol V6 engine. That way, you’ll get both the driveline and the engine that best matches your requirements.