Nissan Qashqai Problems

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

It’s important to give Nissan (or any other manufacturer) the opportunity to put things right. While ever that process is ongoing, you need to be patient and allow Nissan to try to find a fix. Your car is still covered by the manufacturer’s new-car warranty, so that’s the process by which it should be tackled.

If Nissan were to give up on the problem (and you) then you’d have cause to seek recourse according to Australian Consumer Law. I’d also be talking to Nissan Australia’s customer service division to see what else can be done.

It sounds as though the vibration you’re experiencing is coming from the driveline. Perhaps it’s the engine but more likely it’s something in the transmission since the problem is worse when the car changes gear. That the problem occurs when climbing a grade suggests that it’s related to the engine being under load at which point the whole driveline – gearbox and driveshafts – are also loaded up.

It could be something within the transmission itself, a bent driveshaft or even something relatively simple like a worn CV joint. Carefully, and when it’s safe to do so, find a big, open area like a deserted car-park, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and drive slowly in a tight circle. Now do the same on full right-hand lock. Can you hear any clinking or clunking noises? If you can, you have worn CV joints. If not, you need to dig deeper into the cause and that will require getting the car on a hoist and inspecting the driveline.

If it’s the front indicator globe that’s blown, you need to open the bonnet and work from inside the engine bay. The front indicator globe is held in a plastic component that forms part of the whole headlight assembly. The bit you need to find is right at the outer edge of the headlight assembly, right in the corner of the engine bay. Once you’ve located that (it will have wires coming out of it), a half clockwise twist will allow you to remove the plastic globe holder and change the globe.

If it’s a rear globe, you need to open the hatchback, remove the screws that secure the tail-light assembly and then slide the tail-light free of the car. Turning it over, you’ll see the wiring and some plastic clips that fasten the globe-holder to the whole assembly. By unclipping this holder, you can remove it from the rest of the tail-light and reveal the globes which can then be removed and replaced.

Sending you a USB stick in the mail with the updated mapping sounds like a great way for the dealership to make its problem your problem. Why not ask for the update to be done when your new car gets its first service? Dealerships have policies to cope with Covid-19 safely and protect you and their employees. A trip to the dealership to get the sat-nav (which you’ve paid for) working properly isn’t too much of a stretch.

Also, accepting a USB stick in the mail and a set of instructions leaves you open to claims that you’ve done something wrong when the system still doesn’t work properly. Under Australian consumer law and Nissan’s own factory warranty, it’s Nissan’s problem. Don’t let the dealer sidestep you or create an environment where you could be held responsible for a bungle.

It sounds like it is going into ‘limp home’ mode, which cuts the performance of the car but still lets you drive it at a much reduced pace to get it fixed. But it appears to happen at random, which makes it hard for mechanics to trace and fix. It is most likely a problem with the electronics, so if it continues to occur I would suggest you sit down with the dealer and work out a plan of action to hopefully find the cause and fix it.

You should have an auto electrician check the operation, it could simply be a connection in the wiring loom affecting both the windows and the seat.

It’s a pretty standard offer, and while I agree that the heater core should last longer your car is five years old, it’s out of the factory warranty period. I would take the offer and move on.

It's hard to recommend a car that would suit you without knowing more about what you want to do with it, but I would suggest you avoid sporty models, low-profile tyres, and consider an SUV such as a Mitsubishi ASX, Nissan Qashqai, or Renault Captur.

There is nothing to suggest the diesel is a problem, and I would question your mechanic’s advice. The high fuel pressure of today’s diesels can result in worn injectors and they can cost upwards of $2000 to replace. Other than that there’s nothing to be overly concerned about.