Articles by Marcus Craft

Here's our wishlist for the next-generation Nissan Navara

The Mazda BT-50 range has been through a Ford Ranger-based generation and now the second phase of its Isuzu D-Max-based generation. This latest update has brought more safety gear, new wheels and exterior lighting, an upgraded multimedia system, as well as styling tweaks across the board, including to the interior trim. Prices have gone up across the range so is the new top-shelf SP worth a look?

Sometimes a new car’s price puts it out of reach of a potential buyer, or that buyer is simply at a stage in their life where a second-hand vehicle is a better fit for them.What are used cars?A used car (aka a second-hand or pre-owned car) is simply a car that is not new. It has been previously used and owned and is then resold through a car dealership, via a private seller, or an online marketplace (such as Gumtree Cars).Do they tend to be more prone to problems?Not necessarily but, by their very nature, they have been used before, so they’ve been subjected to wear and tear, as well as the previous owner’s (or owners’) good or bad maintenance habits – and, of course, used cars are older than new cars.However, new cars may also trouble their owners with myriad common car problems and are even sometimes subject to recalls over faults or car issues that only come to light after that new vehicle has been on sale and out in the real world for some time.The good news is consistent maintenance, vehicle awareness and car troubleshooting should help you to prevent any common problems in used carsHere are 10 common problem areas in used cars and we’ll work our way from the tyres up.Note if the vehicle in question is an AWD or 4WD, chances are it has been put through a tremendous amount of stress and strain on tough terrain, so it deserves even closer scrutiny before you even think about purchasing it.Tyres are your vehicle’s first – and hopefully only – point of contact with the ground, so your tyres should be in great condition with plenty of tread depth, no cracks in the tyre’s surface, and no uneven wear and tear.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice uneven tyre wear, damage (cuts or splits) or, worse, changes in the car’s on-road dynamics while you’re driving, for instance steering pulling in one direction, or high-speed vibrations, it’s time to get your tyres checked out by a pro because tyre strife is no joke.How can you avoid this problem?Regularly check tyre condition for wear and tear, always run tyres at the manufacturer recommended pressure (refer to the tyre placard in the vehicle or the driver’s manual), and have the tyres rotated (about every 5000-8000km) and balanced, and the wheels correctly aligned. Also, replace tyres if they are 10 years old or more – a tyre’s date of manufacture is stamped on its sidewall.If the brakes on a car aren’t working properly, then the issue can range from mildly annoying (best-case scenario) to dangerous (worst-case scenario). Faulty/damaged/worn-out brake pads, rotors, or callipers may lead to poor braking efficacy (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes that are slow to bite etc) and so increase the risk of an accident, minor or otherwise.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice any unusual noises from the brakes when you do brake (such as high-pitched screeching), or obvious poor performance (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes are slow to bite or bite with a jerky on-off action etc) or even a brake warning light coming on. The culprit may be the brake pads, rotors or callipers.How can you avoid this problem?Unfortunately, this is one of the common car problems but it can be remedied with diligent maintenance. Undertake regular maintenance (according to guidelines in the vehicle owner’s manual) and regularly check the condition of all of your brake pads.If there are odd noises coming from the brakes, your best bet is to tackle the issue as soon as you aware of it – don’t let it become any worse than it already is.There’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the brake pads and rotors checked and, if they’re too worn, get them replaced. While the mechanic is there, have them check for leaks, drain the brake fluid and replace, and, if needed, bleed the brake fluid.Any issue with the vehicle’s suspension is the next thing to watch out for and you’ll quickly recognise if there is something wrong because the car may ride and handle like a mechanical bull – well, not quite that bad but you get the idea.What are the signs of this problem?Suspension strife – worn-out or damaged shocks, struts etc. – will result in a choppy wayward ride and poor on-road handling with impacted steering.There may be noises coming from some part of your suspension set-up and your tyres may be wearing out unevenly and faster than they should.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with guidelines in the owner’s manual, and being sure to check all suspension components, will hopefully pick up any potential issues before they become serious.When there is an issue, there’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the shocks, struts and entire set-up scrutinised, and have any worn-out or damaged components replaced. If it’s an AWD or 4WD, it may have been punished in off-road situations and will need extra attention to avoid any issues down the track.The exhaust system gets rid of your car’s emissions and any problem with it quickly becomes obvious.What are the signs of this problem?Rust may be the culprit here, or loose exhaust pipes, or a leaking exhaust manifold (often indicated by a ticking or tapping noise in the engine, an illuminated ‘check engine’ icon, and a strong exhaust smell).Any strife with the exhaust system may result in poor fuel efficiency and – warn your neighbours! – a too-loud exhaust note.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with the recommendations in the owner’s manual.Make sure you check all exhaust components when you’re scrutinising a car and hopefully that will pick up any potential issues before they become serious.To fix this problem, you’ll have to replace any rusted, damaged or broken parts, any loose sections of the exhaust will have to be tightened, and the leaking exhaust manifold will have to be sorted out.Any issues with your electrical system – lights, indicators, brake lights, power windows etc – should be addressed as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Electrical problems may manifest as headlights (or other lights) that work only intermittently or not at all, power windows that don’t work properly, or interior lights that are faulty.A blown or faulty fuse, damaged or old wiring, or even a battery issue may be the cause of an electrical system malfunction.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of minor issues becoming major issues.Conduct a full inspection of the electrical system (including wiring), replace any blown or faulty fuses, and check the battery and replace if required.A faulty cooling system could result in an overheating engine, which may become even more serious engine strife and lead to damage to – or even failure of – other components in your car.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications of a cooling system problem include that aforementioned overheating engine, the engine temperature gauge rising to a high level quickly, or an obvious coolant leak.Potential causes may include a split or clogged coolant hose, a leaking radiator, or a faulty water pump.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues. Pay attention: if the coolant system warning light/icon is illuminated on your dash driver display, then address the issue immediately – check coolant levels and the radiator and hoses.Potential fixes include flushing the cooling system, and replacing the radiator.Any strife in the fuel system – which consists of fuel filter, pump, injectors (or carburettor if the car is very old), and, of course, tank – means fuel delivery to the engine is compromised and, as a result, the car’s overall performance will suffer.What are the signs of this problem?If the car exhibits any of these signs – rough-as-guts idling, lacklustre acceleration, engine misfires, loss of power at high revs, and/or reduced fuel efficiency – then it’s a strong indication something is amiss in the fuel system.The cause? It could be anything from a clogged, old or even incorrect fuel filter, or pump; carbon deposits in the fuel delivery set-up, poor quality fuel (beware the dirty go-juice!) or something else.How can you avoid this problem? Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Check fuel lines, and the fuel filter, pump and replace as necessary. Clean clogged injectors or get a pro to take a look if you want a second opinion and have those replaced if needed.Engine oil is a lubricant designed to reduce damaging friction created in the inner workings of an internal-combustion engine. Without enough clean engine oil, mechanical parts wear out faster than they would otherwise.An oil leak can signal a minor problem which has the potential to become a major problem if you don’t crash-tackle it at the source as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications that oil is leaking from the car: a puddle of oil on your driveway, low oil level, and/or engine overheating.Oil leaks may be caused by too-low oil levels, worn-out gaskets and seals, or faulty oil filters or other components.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance is key. Pay attention to the condition of all oil-related components and fix leaks immediately to avoid minor issues becoming major issues.Always use the correct type of oil (read the owner’s manual) and replace any faulty parts as soon as possible.Get a professional to take a look if you want a second opinion.A fault in a manual transmission (a gearbox) or in an automatic transmission, if left unchecked, may result in costly repairs down the track so it’s best to address any transmission issues as soon as humanly possible.What are the signs of this problem?There may be clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or it may slip out of gear, strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets), and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Maintain correct transmission fluid level (refill or change as needed), check for transmission leaks and consult a mechanic if repairs or replacements parts are needed.Overview of this problem and what it entailsProblems with steering in a used car – or, for that matter, any car – is a serious safety issue.What are the signs of this problem?Steering strife is obvious from the get-go:Any trouble with turning the steering wheel (potential cause: power-steering fluid leak somewhere in the steering set-up)Vibrations through the steering wheel (potential cause: possible contaminant build-in the power-steering system)Steering pulls to one side (potential cause: worn-out steering gear, lack of power-steering fluid)Loose-feeling steering wheel (potential cause: worn-out steering rack, tie rod)Steering wheel slips when you turn it (potential cause: pump issue, worn-out steering rack mount, or worn or loose power-steering drive belt)Grinding noises when you turn the steering wheel (probable cause: steering gear problem)Screeching noise when you turn the steering wheel (possible cause: loose or worn-out power-steering drive belt or low power-steering fluid level)How can you avoid this problem?Conducting a bit of car troubleshooting and regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any common problems in used cars becoming major problems.Regularly check the power steering fluid level, steering pump, hoses and steering rack. Note if the power steering fluid is foaming or discoloured, there may be air or water in the system, so it’s not doing its job properly and should be replaced.

How long does a car battery last?A fully charged or new car battery can be reasonably expected to last three to six years.What is the average lifespan of a car battery? Or how long does it take for a car battery to die?Between three to six years, but the average lifespan of a car battery may differ between batteries and vehicles depending on several factors, including the make and model of the battery, how many discharge cycles it has gone through, how well it’s maintained, the condition of the host vehicle’s charging system, and whether the host vehicle has any other electrical faults.A new car battery should last three to six years.Expect to get about 2000 charge/discharge cycles out of a car battery before performance really suffers.Yes, and battery manufacturers include those life warranty details and more on their products.Lead-acid batteries are commonly used in cars and they generally last between three to five years.Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are advanced maintenance-free lead-acid batteries that are claimed to have a lifespan of six to seven years.Lithium-Ion batteries are generally used in EVs and are claimed to have aN eight-year lifespan or more.Car manufacturers generally guarantee their EV batteries for eight years/160,000km, but some EV experts reckon that electric car battery life is somewhere between 10 and 20 years.That’s anyone’s guess, but it’s been guesstimated as 26 years of ownership without a significant loss of performance or capacity.A warranty of eight years/160,000km applies to Tesla’s rear-wheel-drive Model 3 and Model Y models, or eight years/192,000km for all other Teslas in Australia.Hybrid battery warranties are generally for eight years or 160,000km, but hybrid batteries may last up to 10 years or about 160,000km-200,000km.A fully charged or new car battery can be reasonably expected to last three to six years.As above.You’d have to be pretty lucky…The older a battery is the more charge/discharge cycles it’s been through, so it’ll yield poor performance as it draws closer to its end of life.A car battery lifespan will be impacted if the battery is incorrectly hooked up (poor mounting, loose cables) or if it’s inserted in the wrong type of vehicle. For example, a truck requires a battery with a higher capacity that what may be needed in a small car, so if a small car battery is used in a truck, it probably won’t last long because of the high demands placed on it by the truck’s larger engine and systems – a car battery capacity may not be enough.Poor driving habits also affect the life of car battery, for example, frequent short-distance trips mean the battery is short-changed in terms of charging. Regular long trips are best for the battery.If a vehicle is left to sit inactive for too long – two weeks or more – then it’ll likely give you strife when you try to start it. Your best bet is to drive it for 15 minutes or so, at least once a week to keep it charged up and ready to go.A car battery is the vehicle’s starter battery, so if accessories, or lights etc. are left on in the vehicle, but the vehicle itself is not running, then that will drain much-needed power from that starter battery.How long’s a piece of string? If you want to run accessories galore, get a dual-battery set-up: one battery is the starter battery, the other battery – the auxiliary – is used to power fridges, lights, TVs etc. Dual-battery systems are popular with off-road tourers.If there’s an electrical fault in the vehicle that will also affect how much charge is being used and how long the battery will last.Extreme temperatures – hot or cold – impact battery longevity. High temps can lead to more internal wear, and cold temps can affect the battery’s performance and its ability to hold charge.Be sure to keep the battery terminals as clean as possible (free of corrosion), check your battery’s charge levels, and regularly test your battery.Using a multimeter (from $10 to buy), set it to between 15 and 20 volts, attach each of its mini alligator clips to the battery’s positive and negative terminals, and read the voltage on the multimeter’s screen – a healthy car battery voltage should have at least 12.6 volts.Your engine is more sluggish than usual, or it takes longer to start.You’re forced to frequently jump-start the vehicle in question.The car’s interior lights are weaker than usual or they flicker when you try to start the car.The actual battery casing itself looks old, swollen, or damaged.There’s noticeable corrosion on the battery terminals.The battery icon is illuminated in the driver’s display.Use a portable battery charger: the charger’s red alligator clip goes on the battery’s positive terminal, while the black alligator clip goes on the battery’s negative terminal, then switch on the charger and start charging. Some chargers automatically identify the battery once connected. On others you will have to manually input that info. Select the charging amperage (opt for lower amperage if possible) and Roberto’s your uncle.Use another vehicle to jump-start the car battery that is ‘dead’ (i.e. the battery is fully discharged). Park the nose of the ‘live’ vehicle as close as you can to the front of the dead one – this is so the jumper cables can reach both batteries. Then:Attach one red clip to the positive terminal on the dead vehicleAttach one red clip to the positive terminal on the live vehicleAttach one black clip to the negative terminal on the live vehicleAttach one black clip to an unpainted metal surface on the dead vehicle (thus grounding the charge).Start the live carStart the dead carKeep the live car running for a few minutes until you’re sure the dead car is holding charge.Then keep the dead car running for 15 minutes or more.Then remove the clips in this order:Remove the black clip from the unpainted metal surface on the dead vehicleRemove the black clip from the negative terminal on the live vehicleRemove the red clip from the positive terminal on the live vehicleRemove the red clip from the positive terminal on the dead vehicleNote: if you have to frequently jump-start the vehicle in question, then it’s time to get a new battery.A car needs about 12 volts to start.

Isuzu's MU-X range has undergone a much-anticipated update and it includes the introduction of a new variant: the new top-of-the-range X-Terrain.The X-Terrain is a seven-seat 4WD wagon and - as part of this new MU-X range - it has an updated chassis, a tweaked suspension set-up, some new safety tech and a recalibrated rough terrain mode (Isuzu's boosted off-road traction control system).

Many people want a four-wheel drive (4WD) because they think only a vehicle with high- and low-range 4WD gearing, plenty of ground clearance, locking diffs, and gnarly Mud Terrain tyres will get them to where they want to go.Well, for some that is correct but for most others, the truth is an all-wheel drive (AWD) is more than enough to get them where they want to go.AWDs should be driven well within their limits and my advice for soft-roader drivers is to avoid anything beyond well-maintained dirt tracks in dry weather; do not drive your AWD vehicle on any tracks that are signposted ‘4WD/high ground clearance only’; do not undertake any prolonged driving on sand, especially soft sand; and definitely no rock-crawling.AWDs aren't anywhere near as capable or as versatile in an off-road scenario as 4WDs, but getting the right all-terrain tyres, dropping tyre pressures and using steady momentum will help soft-roader drivers get through most light-duty off-roading without too much stress and/or vehicle damage.Here’s out top five used alternatives to 4WDs. (Note: We’re focusing on all-round driveability, packability (boot space etc) and whether the vehicle is fit for purpose (practicality).VW’s T6.1 California Beach camper van offers a happy compromise for those who want some outdoors adventure, but don’t want to crawl into a tent or tow a caravan while away on holiday.This retro-cool campervan, based on VW’s mid-size Transporter van and, at the time, a refreshed version of a classic, represents a low-key way to start your own van-based adventure lifestyle. An optional two-tone paint job can add to its cool factor.It seats five (two at the front, and three on the rear bench seat), and can sleep up to four.It has a 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine (producing 110kW at 3250-3750rpm and 340Nm at 1500-3000rpm), a seven-speed dual-clutch auto (or DSG, direct shift gearbox) and VW’s 4Motion all-wheel-drive system.It has a stack of touring-friendly accessories, such as 180-degree swivel seats up front, an electric pop-top roof, a fully sprung loft bed (1200mm x 2000mm) with comfortable-sprung base and mattress, bed extension for rear bench seat with comfort sleeping mattress, camping table and two folding chairs, camper control unit with touchscreen, pull-out awning with housing and rail in black or silver.The California’s interior is nice and comfortable – a blend of life-friendly hard plastic and soft-touch surfaces – with a solid build quality to it all, as well as superior fit and finish.It’s a well-behaved and smooth-driving vehicle, the turbo-diesel engine and seven-speed dual-clutch auto work well together. It’s an even-handed pairing that gives this camper a bit of welcome pep about it and generally makes for an unfussed drive.You do have the option in this of taking on tracks a bit tougher than bitumen or rough back-country roads because it has VW’s 4Motion all-wheel-drive system. And, remember, the $1600 (at the time) off-road package adds a mechanical rear differential lock and hill descent control – but none of that means you should attempt hardcore rock-crawling in your California.It has 213mm ground clearance, so this camper is not built for anything other than light-duty off-roading, i.e. well-maintained gravel or dirt roads with few, if any, corrugations, and in dry weather only.The California has towing capacities of 750kg (unbraked) and 2500kg (braked). GVM (gross vehicle mass) is a claimed 3080kg.Fuel consumption is a claimed 7.5L/100km on a combined cycle. Actual fuel consumption on this test was 9.9L/100km.It has an 80-litre fuel tank so going by that on-test fuel figure you could expect to get a driving range of about 808km from a full tank. It also has a 13-litre AdBlue tank.The California Beach is more than fit for purpose – it’s functional, it's comfortable and it's nice to drive – and may be an ideal introduction to the adventure lifestyle for some.We’ve heard of transmission problems, oil leaks, and even some people having issues with this camper’s awning, but those are hearsay only.As always with a used vehicle, check for underbody damage, rust, sand or salt spray residue that may be evidence the California has indeed been driven near or on beach or coastal river sand.Expect to pay around the $105,000 mark. Pricey, yes, but many would say that it’s well worth the money.This seven-seat AWD plug-in hybrid (PHEV) wagon is a proven city- and family-friendly mid-sized SUV with reasonable capabilities as a light-duty off-road tourer.The Outlander PHEV has a 2.4-litre four-cylinder petrol engine (delivering 185kW and 450Nm), an electric motor on the front and rear axles, and a lithium-ion battery pack with a total capacity of 20kWh.The PHEV’s EV-only driving range increased from 54km in the previous-gen Outlander to 84km in the 2023 line-up.It has a single-speed transmission and drive modes in this vehicle include Eco, Normal, Power, Tarmac, Gravel, Snow and Mud.It has three power-use modes: EV Mode (“perfect for low to medium speeds in urban areas”, according to Mitsubishi), Series Hybrid Mode (“When accelerating or climbing hills, the hybrid petrol engine can be used to generate additional power while the vehicle runs on motor power”), and Parallel Hybrid Mode (“For high-speed driving such as overtaking vehicles on the highway, the vehicle runs on engine power while being assisted by the electric motor”).This Exceed variant has a neat and functional interior with a premium feel about it with comfortable leather seats, soft-touch surfaces, and an easy-to-use multimedia system.The seats are comfortable with adequate room for everyone, though the third row is a bit squeezy.The second row is a 40:20:40 split configuration, while the third row is 50:50.In terms of packing space, there is a 163-litre boot (when all seats are up and in use), 478 litres when the third row is folded down flat, and 1473 litres of useable space when the second and third rows are stowed away.This Outlander is an easy vehicle to manoeuvre around city and suburban streets and even on tight bush tracks.The pairing of a 2.4-litre four-cylinder petrol engine and two electric motors works seamlessly well, it has plenty of power and it’s always very smooth and quiet.The Outlander has 203mm of ground clearance (unladen), but it does feel nimble in the bush (steering is sharp), visibility is good all-round, and it settles well on gravel and dirt tracks at speed, only ever skipping around a bit on rougher sections, due to firm suspension and road tyres.You can switch drive modes to either Gravel, Snow or Mud to best suit the terrain, but, really, with the Outlander’s lack of ground clearance, and its road-biased tyres and 20-inch wheels, this SUV is ultimately more comfortable on well-maintained dirt roads and should not go anywhere near tracks with deeps ruts or mudholes.This is, however, still a handy dirt-road tourer, yielding comfortable and controlled ride and handling, as well as an overall refined driving experience, only ever becoming a bit too rattled when the road or track surface becomes lumpy and bumpy.This PHEV has a listed fuel consumption of 1.5L/100km on a combined cycle, but you have to be very lucky to get anywhere near that figure.Having said that, if your daily driving distances are within this PHEV’s official electric driving range (84km) and you’re able to drive in EV Mode most of the time, then at the very least you will have slashed your fuel costs.The actual fuel consumption on our most recent test in this vehicle was 9.9L/100km. Dash-indicated fuel consumption was 6.1L/100km.Our dash-indicated power usage was 19.2kWh/100km. This PHEV seemed to chow through most of its onboard battery power quite swiftly on our drive home, without recouping much via regenerative braking on long downhills, even when we tried cycling through the regen modes in an attempt to optimise power regain.This Outlander has 20.0kWh battery capacity and a 56L fuel tank.Mitsubishi reckons that if you’re charging off a standard household power point it will take “approximately” 9.5 hours to fully charge your Outlander – or 6.5 hours if you’re using a home or public charging device.Things speed up considerably if you use a public rapid recharging station – in that case, Mitsubishi claims that your Outlander Plug-in Hybrid EV will reach 80 per cent capacity in 38 minutes.Towing capacity is 750kg (unbraked) and 1600kg (braked).This Outlander is nice to drive, quiet, refined and comfortable. Bonus: it is a suitably capable all-wheel-drive tourer.We’ve been told some people have experienced complete battery failure or charging malfunctions and some owners aren’t happy with the firm ride on 20-inch rims but we’ve not seen first-hand any of those problems.As always with a used vehicle, check for underbody damage, rust, sand or salt spray residue that may be evidence the Outlander has been driven near or on beach or coastal river sand.Expect to pay around $64,990.Be aware, there’s going to be one or two Subies on this list.Subaru is well regarded for its effective all-wheel-drive wagons and this Forester maintains that tradition.It has a 2.5-litre four-cylinder petrol Boxer engine – producing 136kW at 5800rpm and 239Nm at 4400rpm – with a seven-speed CVT auto and Subaru's symmetrical all-wheel-drive system with two-mode X-Mode.This top-shelf Forester has a well designed interior with a neat fit and finish and leather everywhere. There are durable surfaces and material elsewhere and so it feels like an interior a family can easily do long road trips in.The interior is comfortable with power-adjustable seats up front and, as mentioned, it’s a family-friendly space. There’s ample legroom all-round, and the roofline is not tapered downwards towards the back end as sharply as it is in some Forester rivals, so there's plenty of headroom in the second row.The Boxer engine and CVT work well together, but manual is still the preferred mode for Forester driving. Paddle shifters on the steering wheel are handy if you want to get lively with your driving.The Forester’s AWD system – a 60/40 torque-slit – comes into its own on bumpy dirt tracks and choppy corrugated gravel roads, but even moreso when this Subie is driven at lower speeds and when the surface of the road or track becomes a little bit looser. Let’s put it this way: the Forester is perfectly fine for low-speed, low-traction scenarios as long as it’s driven safely and sensibly.The X-Mode system here has two modes – Snow/Dirt and Deep Snow/Mud – which each yield improved grip and traction in low-speed and slippery conditions, by way of adjusting throttle control (deadening its sensitivity so the driver has improved input) and traction control (cutting in faster to avoid wheelspin) and gear selection to suit the terrain you’re on.There is 220mm of ground clearance, on par with some supposedly more serious off-roaders, and, driven with consideration, the Forester can tackle most low-intensity off-roading without strife.With regards to suitability for packing for camping and touring, there is 498 litres of space with the second-row seat in use, and 1768 litres of space with those seats folded down flat.This Forester has a claimed fuel consumption of 7.4L/100km (combined). We recorded 8.4L/100km during our time with it and that included 40km of gravel-road driving.It has a 63-litre fuel tank, so going by that on-test fuel figure you could reasonably expect to get a driving range of about 750km from a full tank.It has max towing capacities of 750kg (unbraked) and 1500kg (braked) with a maximum lowball download of 150kg.This comfortable and capable Forester is supremely well-built for purpose, if your purpose is to go on low-intensity weekend adventures and tackle light-duty off-roading, mostly on well-maintained gravel and dirt roads.CVT problems – sluggish shifts, noise – have been informally reported to us, but those seem to have been ironed out in recent years.As always with any used AWD/4WD/or even a 2WD, check for underbody damage, rust, sand or salt spray residue that may be evidence the vehicle in question has indeed been driven near or on beach or coastal river sand.Expect to pay between $24,400 and $30,400.https://www.carsguide.com.au/ev/toyota-rav4-hybrid-2020-review-cruiser-awd-off-road-test-76539 This RAV4 is the second-from-top spec in the fifth-generation RAV4’s range and handy example of a hybrid application executed well.It has a 2.5-litre four-cylinder petrol engine (131kW and 221Nm), an electric motor on the front axle (88kW/202Nm) and an electric motor on the rear axle (40kW/121Nm).Total combined power is listed as 163kW. No combined torque figure is listed.In basic terms, the petrol engine drives the front wheels, the front electric motor helps out with overall efficiency and the electric motor at the back kicks in on that rear axle to give the RAV4 an extra boost when needed.All hybrid grades have an auto/e-CVT as standard.This RAV4 has several driving modes including Eco, Normal and Sport, all geared at producing ride and handling via optimised engine performance and tuning, steering and throttle response, best suited to the selected mode and the terrain and conditions.There’s an EV mode – for driving only on battery power at low speed and for short distances – and and Trail mode, which taps into that rear motor to provide rear-axle power, sending up to 80 per cent of total drive torque to the rear wheels.Passenger space is good and boot space is 580 litres, so there’s heaps of room.This RAV4’s ground clearance is listed as 190mm and while that might seem low to a seasoned four-wheel driver, it's enough for this vehicle to tackle the dry, well-maintained dirt roads and bush tracks with no deep ruts it has been engineered for.Official fuel consumption is listed as 4.8L/100km (combined), but our actual fuel consumption on the test was 5.9L/100km. The RAV4 has a 55-litre fuel tank, so going by that on-test fuel figure you could reasonably expect to get a driving range of about 932km from a full tank.This RAV4 hybrid AWD has a 750kg unbraked towing capacity and 1500kg braked towing capacity, so decent enough for an SUV this size.Most importantly and most impressively, this RAV4 hybrid has no problem getting torque to the ground on any surface because the combination of petrol engine, electric motors and CVT is so effective it always seems to find the sweet spot.Stop-start temporarily doesn’t work – i.e. car keeps running at lights. Battery is likely low and the car is overriding stop-start to keep onboard systems operating.As always, check for underbody damage, rust, sand or salt spray residue that may be evidence that the RAV4 has been driven on beach or coastal river sand.Expect to pay between $38,490 to $51,777.Subarus have a rock-solid rep as handy all-wheel drives and great all-rounders – and this sixth-generation Outback is one of the best.The new (at the time) Outback has a 2.5-litre four-cylinder horizontally-opposed Boxer petrol engine – producing 138kW at 5800rpm and 245Nm at 3400-4600rpm – and that’s mated to a continuously variable transmission (CVT).It has permanent all-wheel drive and Subaru’s X-Mode system that includes Normal, Snow/Dirt and Deep Snow/Mud modes. These driving modes adjust engine torque, throttle response and traction control, among other things, to suit the conditions.Towing capacity for the Outback range is 750kg for an unbraked trailer and 2000kg for a braked trailer, with a towball download of 200kg.Ground clearance is listed as 213mm but that’s enough for the dry, well-maintained dirt roads and bush tracks with no deep ruts this AWD is designed for.Official fuel consumption figure is listed as 7.3L/100km on a combined cycle). On our most recent test in this vehicle we recorded 8.8L/100km.It has a 63-litre fuel tank, so going by that on-test fuel figure you could reasonably expect to get a driving range of about 715km from a full tank.This Outback is nice to drive, impressive value (see below), practical, and roomy, with 522 litres (VDA) of rear cargo capacity, and 1267L when you fold the seats flat.As stated in the CarsGuide Problems section, there have been anecdotal experiences reported of some reliability issues with Subaru CVTs in the past, but in the case of the Outback, that appears to mainly affect vehicles built between 2010 and 2015.Chances are the Outback may not have been used for any off-roading beyond the parking area grass near a soccer field but, just in case, when checking out the vehicle in person, make sure you look under the vehicle to check if it hasn’t copped any serious knocks, bumps or scuffs to the undercarriage or side steps – that may be an indication of other more serious damage that is not visible. Check for rust, sand or salt spray residue that may be evidence of driving on beach or coastal river sand.Expect to pay between $26,900 to $37,900.

Sometimes a new car’s price puts it out of reach of a potential buyer, or that buyer is simply at a stage in their life where a second-hand vehicle is a better fit for them.What are used cars?A used car (aka a second-hand or pre-owned car) is simply a car that is not new. It has been previously used and owned and is then resold through a car dealership, via a private seller, or an online marketplace (such as Gumtree Cars).Do they tend to be more prone to problems?Not necessarily but, by their very nature, they have been used before, so they’ve been subjected to wear and tear, as well as the previous owner’s (or owners’) good or bad maintenance habits – and, of course, used cars are older than new cars.However, new cars may also trouble their owners with myriad common car problems and are even sometimes subject to recalls over faults or car issues that only come to light after that new vehicle has been on sale and out in the real world for some time.The good news is consistent maintenance, vehicle awareness and car troubleshooting should help you to prevent any common problems in used carsHere are 10 common problem areas in used cars and we’ll work our way from the tyres up.Note if the vehicle in question is an AWD or 4WD, chances are it has been put through a tremendous amount of stress and strain on tough terrain, so it deserves even closer scrutiny before you even think about purchasing it.Tyres are your vehicle’s first – and hopefully only – point of contact with the ground, so your tyres should be in great condition with plenty of tread depth, no cracks in the tyre’s surface, and no uneven wear and tear.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice uneven tyre wear, damage (cuts or splits) or, worse, changes in the car’s on-road dynamics while you’re driving, for instance steering pulling in one direction, or high-speed vibrations, it’s time to get your tyres checked out by a pro because tyre strife is no joke.How can you avoid this problem?Regularly check tyre condition for wear and tear, always run tyres at the manufacturer recommended pressure (refer to the tyre placard in the vehicle or the driver’s manual), and have the tyres rotated (about every 5000-8000km) and balanced, and the wheels correctly aligned. Also, replace tyres if they are 10 years old or more – a tyre’s date of manufacture is stamped on its sidewall.If the brakes on a car aren’t working properly, then the issue can range from mildly annoying (best-case scenario) to dangerous (worst-case scenario). Faulty/damaged/worn-out brake pads, rotors, or callipers may lead to poor braking efficacy (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes that are slow to bite etc) and so increase the risk of an accident, minor or otherwise.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice any unusual noises from the brakes when you do brake (such as high-pitched screeching), or obvious poor performance (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes are slow to bite or bite with a jerky on-off action etc) or even a brake warning light coming on. The culprit may be the brake pads, rotors or callipers.How can you avoid this problem?Unfortunately, this is one of the common car problems but it can be remedied with diligent maintenance. Undertake regular maintenance (according to guidelines in the vehicle owner’s manual) and regularly check the condition of all of your brake pads.If there are odd noises coming from the brakes, your best bet is to tackle the issue as soon as you aware of it – don’t let it become any worse than it already is.There’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the brake pads and rotors checked and, if they’re too worn, get them replaced. While the mechanic is there, have them check for leaks, drain the brake fluid and replace, and, if needed, bleed the brake fluid.Any issue with the vehicle’s suspension is the next thing to watch out for and you’ll quickly recognise if there is something wrong because the car may ride and handle like a mechanical bull – well, not quite that bad but you get the idea.What are the signs of this problem?Suspension strife – worn-out or damaged shocks, struts etc. – will result in a choppy wayward ride and poor on-road handling with impacted steering.There may be noises coming from some part of your suspension set-up and your tyres may be wearing out unevenly and faster than they should.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with guidelines in the owner’s manual, and being sure to check all suspension components, will hopefully pick up any potential issues before they become serious.When there is an issue, there’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the shocks, struts and entire set-up scrutinised, and have any worn-out or damaged components replaced. If it’s an AWD or 4WD, it may have been punished in off-road situations and will need extra attention to avoid any issues down the track.The exhaust system gets rid of your car’s emissions and any problem with it quickly becomes obvious.What are the signs of this problem?Rust may be the culprit here, or loose exhaust pipes, or a leaking exhaust manifold (often indicated by a ticking or tapping noise in the engine, an illuminated ‘check engine’ icon, and a strong exhaust smell).Any strife with the exhaust system may result in poor fuel efficiency and – warn your neighbours! – a too-loud exhaust note.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with the recommendations in the owner’s manual.Make sure you check all exhaust components when you’re scrutinising a car and hopefully that will pick up any potential issues before they become serious.To fix this problem, you’ll have to replace any rusted, damaged or broken parts, any loose sections of the exhaust will have to be tightened, and the leaking exhaust manifold will have to be sorted out.Any issues with your electrical system – lights, indicators, brake lights, power windows etc – should be addressed as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Electrical problems may manifest as headlights (or other lights) that work only intermittently or not at all, power windows that don’t work properly, or interior lights that are faulty.A blown or faulty fuse, damaged or old wiring, or even a battery issue may be the cause of an electrical system malfunction.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of minor issues becoming major issues.Conduct a full inspection of the electrical system (including wiring), replace any blown or faulty fuses, and check the battery and replace if required.A faulty cooling system could result in an overheating engine, which may become even more serious engine strife and lead to damage to – or even failure of – other components in your car.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications of a cooling system problem include that aforementioned overheating engine, the engine temperature gauge rising to a high level quickly, or an obvious coolant leak.Potential causes may include a split or clogged coolant hose, a leaking radiator, or a faulty water pump.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues. Pay attention: if the coolant system warning light/icon is illuminated on your dash driver display, then address the issue immediately – check coolant levels and the radiator and hoses.Potential fixes include flushing the cooling system, and replacing the radiator.Any strife in the fuel system – which consists of fuel filter, pump, injectors (or carburettor if the car is very old), and, of course, tank – means fuel delivery to the engine is compromised and, as a result, the car’s overall performance will suffer.What are the signs of this problem?If the car exhibits any of these signs – rough-as-guts idling, lacklustre acceleration, engine misfires, loss of power at high revs, and/or reduced fuel efficiency – then it’s a strong indication something is amiss in the fuel system.The cause? It could be anything from a clogged, old or even incorrect fuel filter, or pump; carbon deposits in the fuel delivery set-up, poor quality fuel (beware the dirty go-juice!) or something else.How can you avoid this problem? Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Check fuel lines, and the fuel filter, pump and replace as necessary. Clean clogged injectors or get a pro to take a look if you want a second opinion and have those replaced if needed.Engine oil is a lubricant designed to reduce damaging friction created in the inner workings of an internal-combustion engine. Without enough clean engine oil, mechanical parts wear out faster than they would otherwise.An oil leak can signal a minor problem which has the potential to become a major problem if you don’t crash-tackle it at the source as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications that oil is leaking from the car: a puddle of oil on your driveway, low oil level, and/or engine overheating.Oil leaks may be caused by too-low oil levels, worn-out gaskets and seals, or faulty oil filters or other components.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance is key. Pay attention to the condition of all oil-related components and fix leaks immediately to avoid minor issues becoming major issues.Always use the correct type of oil (read the owner’s manual) and replace any faulty parts as soon as possible.Get a professional to take a look if you want a second opinion.A fault in a manual transmission (a gearbox) or in an automatic transmission, if left unchecked, may result in costly repairs down the track so it’s best to address any transmission issues as soon as humanly possible.What are the signs of this problem?There may be clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or it may slip out of gear, strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets), and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Maintain correct transmission fluid level (refill or change as needed), check for transmission leaks and consult a mechanic if repairs or replacements parts are needed.Overview of this problem and what it entailsProblems with steering in a used car – or, for that matter, any car – is a serious safety issue.What are the signs of this problem?Steering strife is obvious from the get-go:Any trouble with turning the steering wheel (potential cause: power-steering fluid leak somewhere in the steering set-up)Vibrations through the steering wheel (potential cause: possible contaminant build-in the power-steering system)Steering pulls to one side (potential cause: worn-out steering gear, lack of power-steering fluid)Loose-feeling steering wheel (potential cause: worn-out steering rack, tie rod)Steering wheel slips when you turn it (potential cause: pump issue, worn-out steering rack mount, or worn or loose power-steering drive belt)Grinding noises when you turn the steering wheel (probable cause: steering gear problem)Screeching noise when you turn the steering wheel (possible cause: loose or worn-out power-steering drive belt or low power-steering fluid level)How can you avoid this problem?Conducting a bit of car troubleshooting and regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any common problems in used cars becoming major problems.Regularly check the power steering fluid level, steering pump, hoses and steering rack. Note if the power steering fluid is foaming or discoloured, there may be air or water in the system, so it’s not doing its job properly and should be replaced.

When looking for a used car to buy, one of the first and most crucial aspects of your search should be how to check if a car has been in an accident.

The second-hand 4WD market in Australia is a busy one, we are spoilt for choice.Among this confusion of potential next cars for you are a few duds/lemons/write-offs but there are also a fair number of good value-for-money buys to be found.Here are our top five used 4WDs, including a big V8 wagon, a retro champion, and one or two picks which might even get me even more hate mail.For the purpose of this yarn, we’ve mostly only considered vehicles manufactured in the past decade – those that have benefited from recent advancements in driver-assist and safety technology.Is your 4x4 on the list?As always, tell us what else you think should make the cut in the comments below.Much-loved by 4WD die-hards, the distinctively blocky 80 Series ’Cruiser achieved legendary status years ago.The naturally-aspirated 1HZ diesel is a top choice – many have been turbocharged – and the 1FZ-FE, 4.5-litre, in-line petrol engine, introduced in early 1993, has proven durable.The four basic 80 Series range encompasses: FJ80R - petrol 3F engine; HZJ80R - diesel 1HZ engine; HDJ80R - turbo-diesel 1HD-T engine; and FZJ80R - twin-cam petrol engine. There are ample white ones around, with a smattering of hotted-up matte black versions as well.The best used 80 Series buys are in the base-model area. ‘Standard’ 80s came with the 75 Series driveline, using a part-time 4WD system and a choice of the 3F petrol engine or 1HZ, naturally-aspirated diesel. The 3F gave way to the 1FZ-FE fuel-injected twin-cam in late 1992.Most standard models are diesels, but those that have the petrol engine use a carburetted version, which is a much more flexible unit than the fuel-injected 3F-E used in the GXL and VX models.You'll find some 80s with still-working factory-fitted cruise control and a few with aftermarket jobs onboard.You'll also find plenty of 80s geared up for bush driving, with a bullbar, snorkel, bash plate (offering solid underbody protection), as well as rated recovery points, and any number of other accessories including mud-ready floor mats.Automatic transmission models had a torque converter and viscous coupling centre differential; both of which did much to damp out any engine torque curve ‘wobbles’, along with the considerable driveline lash which was another unpleasant side effect of Toyota's full-time 4WD system.The full-time 4WD RV, GXL and VX models are better balanced on loose or slippery roads, but have more driveline backlash than the part-timer and need a front bearing repack more often, because the front axle is driving all the time.The automatic models (like the vehicle pictured) are nicer to drive than the manuals, but the auto sump is vulnerable to copping knocks from rocks on bush tracks and needs additional bash-plate protection.Factory-fitted front and rear differential locks were optional from 1993.The standard Japanese Grandtrek tyres were terrible on slippery tracks and vulnerable to damage, but the working vehicle models, with part-time 4WD, skinny tyres and firmer coils handled well on and off road.Suspension upgrades – aftermarket lift kits etc – have always been popular 80 additions for improved off-road driving.Towing capacity was 2500kg on the 90-95 models, then increased to 3500kg on the 80 Series after that. Tow-ready 80 Series had a tow bar.(Note: the 80 Series pictured in this yarn – is a 1996 GXL with a 24-valve 6-cylinder 1HD-FT turbo-diesel engine and automatic transmission. It has a 270-litre fuel tank – a long-range fuel tank set-up – and a 30-litre water tank. The standard version had a 90-litre fuel tank and a 45-litre fuel tank.)The diesels need their camshaft drive belts replaced at 100,000 kilometres and both have expensive oil and fuel filters.The 1FZ-FE, 4.5-litre, in-line petrol engine, introduced in early 1993, was as durable as Toyota promised it would be, but servicing costs are elevated by high filter prices.Engines converted to run on LPG seem to live without any drama, but Toyota actively discouraged the practice.Gearbox problems included a pre-1993 major issue which was a crunching, vibrating manual gearbox – it was bad enough to cause Toyota to change its advertising message, dropping the reference to “vibration-free". In 1992 a redesigned manual transmission cured most gearbox complaints.Minor problems with early 80s include a clutch accumulator which leaked and can be best repaired by replacing it with the later model unit.Automatic transmission problems are infrequent as far as we know.The turbo-diesel suffered from big-end problems that were fixed only by service outlets that had access to a full range of over- and under-sized bearing shells. (If you’re buying a factory turbo-diesel 80 Series with the 1HD-T engine make sure the bottom end has been professionally rebuilt.)Toyota continued to support the turbo-diesel, finally replacing the 1HD-T with the properly engineered 24-valve 1HD-FT in March 1995, along with a facelift and revised interior.If the 80 has any aftermarket gear on it, as always check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle history report.Prices range from around $20,000 to $60,000, depending on how well the vehicle has been maintained and just how obsessed a LandCruiser fan you are. Prices do not include on-road costs.(Note: Some years ago I commissioned a mate of mine, 4WDing legend Allan Whiting, to write a yarn about the 80 Series for this website – Allan’s work has been used as the basis for this entry.)Australian automotive engineering company Premcar was given free rein to transform the Patrol into something better, as part of Nissan Australia’s Warrior program, and this is the result.The Patrol Warrior is bigger, wider and taller than the Ti spec Patrol on which it’s based and it has upgraded Aussie-tuned suspension, a Warrior-specific wheel-and-tyre package, a bi-modal exhaust system, tough-as-nails underbody protection, a 48kg increase in payload over the Ti (to 736kg), among many other enhancements.The Nissan Patrol Warrior is an eight-seat 4WD wagon with more than $15,000 worth of crucial conversion work, engineering upgrades and fitment of adventure-ready accessories brought onboard to turn the Patrol into a Warrior.The Warrior has the Patrol line-up’s 5.6-litre V8 petrol engine – producing 298kW at 5800rpm and 560Nm at 4000rpm – and a seven-speed automatic transmission.It has full-time four-wheel drive with high- and low-range modes.At its Patrol heart the Warrior has all the solid reliable four-wheel drive mechanicals, plenty of torque over a wide rev range and a rear diff lock.Warrior-specific suspension modifications include Warrior-tuned 'Hydraulic Body Motion Control' suspension (front and rear), front Warrior red springs, rear Warrior multi-rate red springs, Warrior rear bump-stop, a bash-plate and more.The Warrior wheel-and-tyre package is the Yokohama Geolandar 15 All Terrain tyres (295/70R18) on 18 x 9 J cast-aluminium Patrol Warrior black machined-face alloy wheels. These tyres are bigger and offer more grip, so they provide the Warrior with plenty of traction on terrain where a standard Patrol may struggle.There's more ground clearance in the Warrior (323mm, +50mm over the Ti), so approach (40 degrees) and departure angles (23.3 degrees) are an improvement over the standard Patrol.Ramp-over angle is not listed, neither is wading depth but I reckon the latter is about 700mm.The Patrol is a well-respected towing platform and the Warrior’s towing capacities remain as 750kg (unbraked) and 3500kg (braked).The Warrior's GVM (gross vehicle mass) at 3620kg is 120kg more than the Ti Patrol’s.Chances are the Warrior hasn’t been used for any four-wheel driving beyond well-maintained bush tracks but, just in case, when checking out the vehicle in person, make sure you look under the vehicle to check if it hasn’t copped any serious knocks, bumps or scuffs to the undercarriage or side steps – that may be an indication of other more serious damage that is not visible. If you’re in Queensland, where beach-driving is much more accessible than it is elsewhere, check for rust, sand or salt spray residue.Don’t buy a V8-powered vehicle if you baulk at big fuel bills. The Nissan Patrol Warrior has an official fuel consumption figure of 14.4L/100km (on a combined cycle).On a recent test, I recorded 23.2L/100km but I did a lot of high- and low-range 4WDing.The Patrol has a 140L fuel tank capacity, so, using our on-test consumption figure you could reasonably expect a full-tank driving range of about 603km.If the Warrior has any other aftermarket gear on it, make sure that equipment hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from approximately $95,000 to $120,000. Prices do not include on-road costs.The Sport is available as a 4WD wagon with a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel V6 engine or as a rear-wheel drive wagon with Ford’s 2.0-litre four-cylinder bi-turbo – both have a 10-speed automatic transmission. (Pictured is a Sport with the V6 engine and selectable 4WD with auto mode.)It has a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel V6 (producing 184kW at 3250rpm and 600Nm from 1750rpm-2250rpm) and a 10-speed automatic transmission.It has a 4WD system with selectable two-wheel drive (2H), four-wheel drive high-range (4H), four-wheel drive low-range (4L) and four-wheel drive automatic (4A = 4Auto) that sends drive to the front and rear axles as needed, and which can be used on high-traction surfaces.It also has a locking rear diff.The Everest has selectable drive modes including Normal, Eco, Tow Haul, Slippery, and for off-roading: Mud/Ruts, and Sand, which adjust engine outputs, throttle, transmission, braking, traction and stability controls to best suit the driving conditions.This Everest is a very impressive off-roader: the engine is torquey, with plenty of its 600Nm on top across a wide rev range.The 10-speed auto transmission is clever – most of the previous-gen’s scrambling between ratios has been ironed out.The Everest has a listed length of 4914mm (with a 2900mm wheelbase), a width of 2015mm, and a height of 1837mm. It has a turning circle of 11.8m and an official kerb weight is 2457kg. So this is not a small wagon.And its dimensions prevent the Everest from being an absolute off-road beast. It feels low – even though official ground clearance is listed as 226mm – and its underbelly feels vulnerable.Approach angle is 30.2 degrees, departure angle is 25 degrees, and ramp break-over is 21.9 degrees, but remember that if you fit a towbar to the rear that will impact the Everest’s departure angle. Wading depth is 800mm.Another thing: the brake pedals feel spongy – taking a long time between initial foot pressure to actually 'biting', and then the brakes – discs all round – quite abruptly clamp into action.Official fuel consumption for the Everest V6 is 8.5L/100km on a combined cycle; on my test I recorded 15.7L/100km.The Everest has a 80-litre tank, so, going by the above figures, you will have a touring distance (spent mostly in low-range 4WD) of about 510km.Ford has offered the Everest with choice of three ARB Builds – Family Adventurer, Tourer, and Serious Off-roader. Each one includes a specific set of aftermarket accessories (covering protection, suspension, lighting and more) and were fitted, at the new owner’s request, prior to collection.The builds are covered by Ford’s five-year/unlimited km warranty.However, if the Sport you’re considering has any one of those builds onboard, make sure you check the vehicle thoroughly for any damage and, of course, order a vehicle history report. Chances are this vehicle may have never been used off-road – or it may have been subject to a terrible barrage of 4WDing-related punishment. It’s up to you to check.As standard, the Sport came with 20-inch alloy wheels with Goodyear Wrangler Territory HTs (255/55R20) – not ideal for off-roading. Ford was offering offer 18-inch black alloys on All-Terrain tyres as a no-cost option at time of purchase, but if the second-hand Sport you’re considering to buy is shod with other, more off-road-appropriate tyres and is on 18-, 17-inch or even 16-inch rims, then make sure you check for damage – slight or otherwise – on the front and rear bumper, side steps, underbody, everywhere because this vehicle may have been used for more serious off-roading than merely well-maintained bush tracks.There is some uncertainty as to how well the Everest’s transmission holds up under the sustained pressure of heavy towing.Also, I have been privy to negative chatter – online and around campfires – about Ford’s after-sales service.A niggle: the e-Shifter in 4WD Everests is an annoying toggle/rocker-switch.As always, if the vehicle has any other aftermarket gear on it, make sure that equipment hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from $67,000 to $87,000. Prices do not include on-road costs.It looks like a block of wood on wheels but the LandCruiser Troop Carrier’s 4WD heritage is undisputed and its status as a solid bush-tourer is further enhanced by Toyota's reputation for reliability – whether justified or not.The Troopie's popularity remains heavily reliant on its bush cred – but it has that rep for a reason: this is a go-anywhere country work truck or remote-area touring vehicle.It offers its owner very little comfort, driver-assist technology or mod cons – you’ve been warned – but the Troopie does deliver no-nonsense, no-compromise off-road capability.The 2019 Troopie is available in an entry-level two-seater WorkMate spec or top-spec five-seat GXL (pictured).It has a 4.5-litre turbo-diesel V8 engine – producing 151kW at 3400rpm and 430Nm at 1200-3200rpm – and that is matched to a five-speed manual gearbox.It has a part-time 4WD system with high and low range and front and rear diff locks as standard.The GXL Troopie gets 16-inch steel wheels, rather than alloys.It's a very basic interior, sure, but it's a durable and supremely functional cabin with plenty of hard-wearing surfaces, cloth and plastic.Don't go looking for Apple CarPlay or Android Auto – it's not here, unless a previous owner has dropped it in as an aftermarket system.The tall and boxy Troopie is 5220mm long (with a 2980mm wheelbase), 1790mm wide and 2115mm high. It weighs 2325kg.The Troopie is more than a tad unwieldy in any cityscape, a bit awkward to manoeuvre on suburban streets but, of course, much better when you get it out in the bush.Driver position is high and commanding, visibility is great all-round and that V8 offers up plenty of responsiveness when you make demands of it.Steering is vague, it exhibits pronounced body-roll on sharper corners, and the brake pedal action is spongy. However, if you forgive it those characteristics, and more, which I am, then you're in for an enjoyable drive.It's a bit more relaxed on an open road – when you can nudge into its tall fifth gear and get going – although its block-like shape tends to catch high winds and the wash from passing big rigs as a yacht's sail would.It’s a very capable 4WD. It's tall and square (so is easy to fill with camping gear, work equipment, your kids and dogs), it has a tough interior, and it has a robust drivetrain and 4WD system.The Troopie – with its live axles, coils at the front and leaf springs at the rear – will never feel like a sports car. It's noisy and no matter how refined Toyota claims to have made the V8 and its five-speed manual gearbox, it will always feel gruff and agricultural – and cough up more wind-rush roar over the big wing mirrors – compared to everything else.The Troopie's low-range gearing is so very low that it's able to crawl up the steepest of driveable inclines with no difficulty – even those criss-crossed by deep ruts. Generally, 4WD Low first gear is enough to get the Troopie up anything.With a wading depth of 700mm and 235mm ground clearance, enough to clear most submerged obstacles, this Toyota was never fazed during any water crossings. It has a snorkel as standard.Its standard 16-inch skinny tyres – Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts (225/95R16) – aren't ideal for bush-touring so get rid of those for some you'd be more likely to find all over the place.Towing capacity is 750kg (unbraked) and 3500kg (braked). It has a 975kg payload, a GVM of 3330kg and a GCM of 6800kg.Claimed fuel consumption is 10.7L/100km (combined). On my most recent test I recorded 11.1L/100km. It has a 180-litre tank, so, going by the above figure, you could reasonably expect a touring distance of about 1620km from a full tank.Note, the TroopCarrier does not have an ANCAP safety rating because it has not been tested.Even though it is a natural born off-roader, its bulk sometimes works against: the long wheelbase can prove to be a burden through deeply rutted hills or inclines/declines lumpy with sharply angled rocks or pitted by steep-sided potholes.Check thoroughly for damage to the underbody, and front, sides and rear.As always, if the vehicle has any aftermarket gear on it, make sure that equipment hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from $75,000 To $83,000 – another case of “Toyota tax”. Prices do not include on-road costs.The top-spec seven-seat GSR is a solid value-for-money all-rounder and a very capable off-road vehicle.The Pajero Sport has a 2.4-litre, four-cylinder, turbo-diesel engine, which produces 133kW at 3500rpm and 430Nm at 2500rpm, and it has an eight-speed automatic transmission.This is not a dynamic combination, but although it is sluggish, the Pajero Sport is reasonable on-road and it’s very nimble off-road.The GSR has Mitsubishi’s Super Select II 4WD system and a rear diff lock. One of the advantages of Super Select II 4WD is that fact you’re able to drive this vehicle in ‘4H' (4WD high range) without any risk of transmission wind-up because the centre diff is not locked. This factor adds an extra element of safety and sure-footedness to your driving experience.The GSR has a button-operated off-road mode system – with Gravel, Mud/Snow, Sand or Rock settings, each of which tweaks engine output, transmission settings and traction control to best suit the terrain – and hill descent control.The GSR has selectable off-road modes, including Gravel, Sand, Mud/Snow (when in high-range 4WD) and Rock (when in low-range 4WD). Each of these modes adjusts engine output, transmission settings and traction control to best suit the terrain.The Pajero Sport is 4825 millimetres long with a 2800mm wheelbase. It is 1815mm wide, 1835mm high and it has a listed kerb weight of 2125kg.In terms of packability, the cabin is quite narrow compared to many of its rivals and there are plenty of other SUVs and 4WD wagons around that offer more room inside for people, gear and dogs – but overall this is a functional space, even if it feels a bit dated.As standard it’s riding on Toyo Open Country A32 all-terrain tyres (265/60R18 110H) but it would perform even better with more aggressive rubber.Wheel travel is okay, ground clearance (218mm) is reasonable, although you still have to mind your driving line through rough terrain and be mindful of approach (30 degrees), departure (24.2) and ramp-over (23.1) angles. Wading depth is listed as 700mm.Official fuel consumption for the Pajero Sport GSR is 8.0L/100km on a combined cycle.Its real-world fuel figure on this test, from pump to pump, was 9.6L/100km.The Pajero Sport has a 68-litre tank, so, with that sort of fuel-consumption figure, you can reasonably expect a driving range of approximately 680km from a full tank, but that’s after having already factored in a safe-distance buffer of 30km.The Pajero Sport is noteworthy because it is covered by a 10-year/200,000 kilometre new car warranty, (whichever occurs first and when all scheduled services are completed at a Mitsubishi dealership), 10 years of capped price servicing, and four years of roadside assistance, provided the previous owner has stuck to the conditions of said warranty.Chances are the Pajero Sport hasn’t been used for anything more challenging than rain-slick bitumen, well-maintained bush tracks in national parks, or gravel back roads but, just in case, when checking out the vehicle in person, make sure you look under the vehicle to check that it hasn’t sustained any damage to the underbody or side steps – that may be an indication of other more serious damage that is not visible. If you’re in Queensland, where beach-driving is a right not a privilege, check for rust, sand or salt spray residue.As always, if it has any aftermarket gear on it, make sure that gear hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give it a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from $42,000 through to $70,000, depending on the grade. Prices do not include on-road costs.

US pick-ups are all the rage in Australia and with a full-sized Toyota Tundra a fresh arrival, fans of these big utes are about to be even more spoiled for choice.