Ford Mondeo Problems

It sounds as though the transmission itself has encountered an internal failure for that level of mayhem. Diesel versions of this model Mondeo were fitted with a six-speed double-clutch transmission otherwise known as the Powershift transmission. With a wet-clutch design, this gearbox was a lot more durable than the dry-clutch design used in many other Fords including the Focus and Fiesta, and the latter was a complete disaster with premature failures earning Ford Australia a caning at the hands of the ACCC.

But even the wet-clutch Powershift must be considered a liability to some extent, and failures like yours are absolutely possible. This won’t, however, be a cheap fix and you can expect the repairs to be a good chunk (if not more than) the retained value of the car. At which point, you have to make some very pragmatic decisions.

If you’re lucky, a transmission specialist might be able to determine that the problem is a simple one and fix it cheaply, so that’s worth a shot in the first instance. But don’t be surprised if the diagnosis is a lot less rosy than that.

I'll take a punt here and suggest that your car is the turbo-diesel variant with the six-speed dual-clutch transmission. The dual-clutch unit is vastly more problematic than a conventional automatic transmission and has given many manufacturers (Ford and VW being two of the main ones) all sorts of consumer grief over the years.

The unit in your car is a wet-clutch design which is much more robust than the cheaper-to-make dry-clutch type, but has still been known to fail. (The dry-clutch units on Ford's Focus, Fiesta and Ecosport models cost Ford millions in fines when they began failing at low mileages and the ACCC stepped in.) That said, the wet-clutch units have also experienced problems, but before you scrap the car or shell out $15,000 for a new gearbox (which sounds like an ambit claim in the first place) have it checked out by a specialist. In many cases, jerky progress like you're experiencing can be caused by the transmission's control module or even a faulty speed sensor inside the unit, rather than the actual transmission hardware. If that's the case, it may be more economical to repair the car.

Beyond that, I totally agree that less than 100,000km is not an acceptable lifespan for a major component such as a car's transmission.

Ford started using a dual-clutch transmission on the Mondeo from late 2009 in the upgrade of the Mark 4 Mondeo. It continued into the Mark 5 model launched in mid-2015. However, it’s important to note that it was not the dry-clutch DPS6 version of the Powershift gearbox you’ve asked about, but a superior wet-clutch version. It was also used only on turbocharged petrol and turbo-diesel Mondeos; the normally-aspirated petrol model used a conventional automatic transmission.

The Mondeo dual-clutch unit’s wet-clutch design has proven itself to be the vastly superior solution. It’s not that we haven’t heard of some failures of this transmissions, but it’s far less likely to cause problems than the dry-clutch version which was only used by ford in Focus, Fiesta and Ecosport (in Australia).

I can understand why anybody would be apprehensive about the dry-clutch transmission in a Ford as it was an absolute disaster for both owners and the Ford company. Ford Australia was fined millions and roundly condemned by the ACCC over its handling of the fiasco, and many owners swore off Ford’s products for life.

A huge percentage of dry-clutch Focuses, Fiestas and Ecosports suffered total transmission failures early in life, and even those that kept going often had driveability issues to drive their owners crazy. The best advice with a dual-clutch Fiesta, Focus or Ecosport is to avoid it at all costs. This is a car you really don’t want to own at any price.

Ford’s Powershift dual-clutch transmission is one of the most suspect pieces of engineering in recent history. When failures of the transmission first started being noticed, Ford, rather than fix the problem, took the view that owners were driving the car incorrectly and laying blame there. It didn’t end there, though, as the high failure rate of the gearbox soon had the ACCC involved and Ford was subsequently fined and accused of `unconscionable conduct’ by the consumer watchdog.

Fundamentally, the transmission itself was junk. It suffered failures of the electronics and sensors as well as the control module and, in some cases, failure of the mechanical parts including clutch-packs. Symptoms include harsh shifting, a loss of drive, noises and, as you’ve noted, failure to select some gears.

Even worse was the dry-clutch unit fitted to Ford Focus, Fiesta and Ecosport models which would fail even more spectacularly. These were so bad, Ford ended up offering owners of those vehicles a very cheap trade-up deal to the newer model which used a conventional torque converter automatic rather than the dreaded dual-clutch. Unfortunately, the wet-clutch unit in your car wasn’t included in that offer, but the failures are still well documented.

You’re right that the car is well out of warranty now, but I still think you’d be wise to have a chat with Ford’s customer service division to see if there’s anything that can be done to help you out financially. Throwing away a modern car with just over 100,000km on board just doesn’t seem right in 2021. Nor does a transmission that costs almost $10,000 to replace. But I can see your point about throwing good money after bad; on today’s figures, your car is worth about $10,000, roughly the same as the gearbox it requires.

This has been an ongoing problem for car owners for decades now. Car-makers often decide to fit self-levelling rear suspension in cars like station-wagons as it ensures the car doesn’t sit nose-up when it’s carrying a big load. But as you’ve discovered, replacing those adjustable shock absorbers can be a huge pain in the wallet. And, like tyres and brake pads, shock absorbers are often regarded as wear-and-tear items and therefore aren’t covered by a factory warranty. Certainly not a year out from the expiration of that warranty. That said, I agree with you that 55,000km is not the expected lifespan of a modern damper. 

In the past, the solution has been to fit conventional dampers in place of the adjustable ones and live with the loss of the self-levelling function (which most owners manage to cope with). The Mondeo is a much more popular model in Europe than it ever was in Australia, so shopping online in, say, the UK might turn up a set of replacement shocks for a lot less than the extortionate figure you’ve been quoted. Provided you deal with established, reputable online companies, you should have no problems. But if conventional (non-adjustable) dampers are available from a Mondeo without the self-levelling suspension, that would probably be the smart way to go to avoid being in the same boat in another 55,000km.

I’m not sure why you’d need to change the rear springs as well as moving to conventional dampers (not that I’m doubting your research) but even if that was the case, a set of springs is a one-off purchase and shouldn’t cost much. The best bet would be to visit a suspension specialist and have the car measured up to see what dampers will fit and do the job. There’s bound to be something out there from another make or model that will physically fit and provide the damping performance the car requires. Self-levelling suspension is a nice touch, but it’s not an absolute necessity on a car like a Mondeo wagon.

For a start, diesel engines need a specific type of oil which often has a higher detergent content to keep the insides of the engine free of the soot for which diesel engines are notorious. The second thing to consider is what viscosity or grade of oil you need. Most oil manufacturers have a strict recommendation for the turbo-diesel in your Mondeo, and that’s a 0W30 oil. Straying from this viscosity could be asking for trouble as that’s the oil the engine was designed to use.

And don’t be tempted by a cheap, supermarket-branded oil. Always buy an established brand. If in doubt, consult your owner’s manual for more information.

This is a bit of a weird one because the only difference between using manual mode and fully-automatic mode is that you tell the gearbox what gear to be in in the former, and the gearbox decides for itself in the latter. Beyond that, the exact same process is going on inside the transmission. Which means, I’d expect the same problems to be apparent regardless of what mode you were driving in.

Your gearbox is doing what’s known as `slipping’ or `flaring’ and that can be caused by a number of things. Those include low transmission-fluid level, low fluid-pressure caused by a worn pump or accumulators, a damaged torque converter or worn out bands and clutches inside the gearbox. The low fluid level is easy to check and address, but anything else probably points to either a new gearbox of a rebuild of the current one.

The wild card is the difference behaviour between auto and manual mode, so perhaps it’s a problem with the electronic solenoids that control the shifts. It could be that the gearbox is not shifting properly in automatic and will only behave when you prod it via the manual-shift mode. A scan at a workshop might give a few clues in this regard.

It sounds like the stability-control program is throwing up random fault codes that are telling the on-board computer that something’s wrong with this very important piece of safety technology. At that point, the protocol could be to send the car into limp-home mode to avoid having a faulty stability-control system create any problems that could cause a crash. But who knows, because there are literally hundreds of systems on a modern car that could cause this sort of malfunction.

Because the ESP light only comes on sometimes before the limp-home condition occurs, perhaps the two are related but not reliant on each other. While the engine limp-home mode is usually associated with a problem under the bonnet, the ESP light is more likely to be triggered by a problem with the braking or throttle-by-wire system. Certainly, the latter could also trigger a limp-home response from the engine.

Have the car scanned by a workshop and see what fault codes pop their heads up. That will save a lot of time and money compared with changing components until you find the one at fault.

The PowerShift transmission problems related to the dry clutch transmission fitted to the Focus, Fiesta and EcoSport models. The Mondeo has a wet clutch transmission, and as such, is not affected.

The Titanium is the top of the line Mondeo model, the Trend is the mid-ranger. Compared to the Trend the Titanium has 18-inch wheels, 9 speakers, power adjustment for the steering column, a body kit, glass roof, headlamp washers, heated rear seats, automatic parking, and sports pedals.