Nissan Navara Problems

This sounds like a classic case of a hydraulic lifter (also called a lash adjuster) that is dying a slow death. These components rely on engine oil pressure to maintain the correct clearance between the engine valves and the rockers that actuate them, and any wear will show up as a ticking noise when the engine is first started and is still building oil pressure. They can often 'tick' for a few seconds or more before going quiet.

The recurrence of the noise has probably got something to do with a fall in oil pressure at idle when the engine warms up, allowing the lifter to start ticking again. But the engines in this series of Navara were also known for ticking or rattling noises as the result of worn camshaft-chain tensioners, broken or damaged cam bearing bolts and wear in the auxiliary pulleys and belt tensioners. If the noise does turn out to be a dud lifter, do the smart thing and replace them all, as wear in one means certain wear beginning in the others.

The towing limit on this model Navara varies enormously according to what engine and transmission is fitted. As a result, the Gross Combination Mass (GCM) also varies a lot between models. As such, the 2.4-litre petrol Navara has a GCM of 4230kg, the V6 petrol a GCM of 4850 and the turbo-diesel is much higher at 5920kg.

Don't forget, the GCM includes the vehicle, whatever it's towing and everything else on board, including fuel, accessories and even passengers.

You haven't given me much to go on with here, Noel. Without the year and specification of your Navara, I can't even guess if it was fitted with a DPF or not. That's because Nissan has had a bit of an on-again-off-again relationship with DPF technology. To the extent that in some versions of the Navara, the automatic variant had a DPF and the manual did not.

But you can check for yourself by taking a look under the car. A DPF looks a bit like a muffler, but with a couple of metal pipes coming out of it and usually an electrical connection or two. Some of this stuff may be hidden behind heat shields, however. In most cases the Navara's DPF will be located in the middle section of the exhaust system, roughly beneath the front passenger's seat.

Running over a piece of old fencing wire is not uncommon on farms and regional areas and, as you’ve discovered, it can do a lot of damage if it gets wrapped around a moving part. It sounds as though the inner CV joint is badly damaged and that’s allowing the axle to `float’ in and out of its proper position.

If you’re lucky, a replacement CV joint might be all that’s required. But a word of caution: Don’t attempt to drive the vehicle as it is. If the axle jumps ship from the differential completely, it can flail about under the vehicle, causing all sorts of expensive damage.

There are plenty of brands around in the aftermarket that claim to offer better performance and durability. Stick with a known brand and perhaps contact your local four-wheel-drive club or off-road specialist for specific brand advice. Somebody in the club is bound to have a Navara with an upgraded clutch.

The good news is that there are local manufacturers that can provide a heavy-duty clutch for your vehicle, so staying local is probably a good idea if there are any issues or questions down the track. Even better news is that for the NP300 Navara, Nissan switched from a dual-mass to a single-mass flywheel. This means you can fit a heavy-duty clutch kit without having to replace the flywheel itself, saving money. Don't forget to closely check the condition of the flywheel, however, as it may require machining for the new clutch to work properly.

Towing and off-roading place immense loads on a clutch, and this is a common upgrade for those who use their vehicles in this way.

Honestly, this problem could be caused by anything from a transmission that is worn out to one that is simply low on fluid. It could even be caused by a bad earth somewhere on the car or something as simple as a blown fuse.

You need to take the vehicle to a workshop that can electronically scan the vehicle and hopefully turn up a fault code that will pin-point the problem. Without doing this, you're simply guessing at what the problem might be and will end up replacing parts you didn't need to.

My experience has generally been that Ssangyong is a brand with decent reliability. Many people think it’s a Chinese brand, but it’s actually a South Korean company. And when you look at the other South Korean car-makers we see here – Hyundai and Kia – you can see that the country makes some fine vehicles with great reliability and durability.

You’re right about that warranty, too; at seven years of factory cover, it’s one of the best (if not the best) in the business. You’re also right about the relative value-for-money equation. The Ssangyong seems like a lot of vehicle for the money.

Perhaps the only thing that might make you think twice would be the supply of spare and service parts. That said, in 2022, that problem is afflicting a lot of mainstream companies and volume sellers as well as the smaller brands. And from what I can gather, this problem is a bigger one for the Chinese brands than some of the others.

A Musso has a towing capacity of 3500kg (with a braked trailer) so a 1200kg caravan should not trouble it one bit. Take the Musso for a test drive and decide for yourself, but we reckon, after a D22 Navara, you’ll be amazed at how good a modern dual-cab ute can be at this price-point.

The only thing more unreliable than a low-fuel warning light is the on-board computer that gives you a distance-to-empty kilometre figure. The problem with the latter is that the figure will differ enormously depending on your driving style at the time. For instance, the computer, a highway trip might, suggest you have 100km left in the tank. But once you hit the outer suburbs and switch to stop-start driving, that number could be as little as half the figure flashing on the dashboard.

As a rule of thumb, car-makers tend to calibrate the fuel-warning light to come on somewhere between 100 and 50km before you actually run dry. But it’s still a stab in the dark, and really not worth pushing your luck.

To get the most accurate feel for what the fuel-warning light is really telling you, here’s our advice: Fill the car to and absolute brim. A 2014 Navara holds either 75 or 80 litres of fuel, depending on specification. Then, the next time the fuel light flashes on, pull into the first service station and fill it to the brim again. That will give you a pretty accurate idea of the umber of litres you’ve used from filling up to the point where the light switches on. Then, you can subtract those litres from the tank’s capacity to arrive at how much was left in the tank.

This is a more common problem than you might imagine and applies to a lot of cars besides Nissan Navaras. It’s not always caused by people with constantly wet hands or those who work with chemicals, either; a lot of pampered vehicles have seen this type of problem.

As well as being pretty ordinary to look at day after day, this sort of damage also devalues a car when you go to sell it. The warranty on your Navara would have been for the first three years (Nissan shifted to a five-year warranty mid-2019) but because it was a demonstrator, the warranty period would have started from the date it was first registered or reported as sold, not the day you bought it.

Most new-car warranties also state that `normal wear and tear’ is not covered, but there’s an argument that normal wear and tear shouldn’t be visible on a steering wheel after just four years and 60,000km of use.

If it really bothers you, there are motor trimmers who can stitch on a new leather covering which I would expect to last a lot longer than four years. You would, of course, have to remove the wheel from the car which requires somebody who knows their air-bag safety drills and procedures.

Just as oils aint oils, batteries aint batteries. The correct battery for your car will not be based on brand, but rather its capacity and output (does it have enough grunt to turn your engine) as well as its physically layout (are, for instance, the negative and positive terminals on the correct ends of the battery for your battery terminals to connect properly).

By `kick out’ I’ll assume you mean the starter motor doesn’t spin the car’s engine when you turn the key. There are lots of causes for this. The first is that you do, indeed, have the incorrect battery that doesn’t have enough cranking amperes to spin your engine and provide enough power to the vehicle’s ignition for the engine to fire. Or, you may simply have fitted a battery that’s low on charge for the same results. Buying a brand-new battery from a shop is no guarantee that the thing will be fully charged up. It’s always a good idea to charge any new battery overnight before trying to start a car with it, in case the battery has lost charge while sitting on the store’s shelf for weeks or months.

Beyond that, there are still plenty of reasons for a car to refuse to turn over. I’d start with checking the earth connections from the battery to the car’s body and engine and then do a test on the battery to see if it’s in decent health or not. Most workshops can do this simple test for you if you’re in doubt.