Suzuki Grand Vitara Problems

You have at least two separate problems here. The first is the error code suggesting the camshafts are out of phase (retarded). This is often the result of the cam-chain having stretched and requiring replacement. Fundamentally, once the chain stretches, the on-board computer detects this and illuminates the check-engine light as well as logging the fault code. If this is the case, the repairs could easily run into the thousands. However, it could also be a fault with the sensor that reads the camshaft position or something else altogether, but the timing chain would be the prime suspect. It could also cause a slow idle such as you've noted.

The second problem is that the check-engine light was either broken or deliberately disabled to disguise the fault with the cam-chain. I'm certainly not accusing the seller of doing this, but it can't be ruled out. And yes, an illuminated check-engine light is a roadworthy item, so the car would (or should) not have passed a roadworthy inspection with the lamp illuminated.

Whether the roadworthy tester is at fault will come down to whether they knew the check-engine light was faulty or not. Of course, if the light was already broken when the car was presented for inspection, that would muddy the waters further.

I sincerely hope you bought the car from a licensed car dealer and not a private seller. If it was the latter, you'll have little to no chance of gaining compensation for what could be a very expensive problem. But if you bought the car from a dealer, then you should have some come-back, especially once you prove that the check-engine light was either broken or disabled at the time you inspected the car prior to purchase. That's partly because of Australian consumer laws as well as the fact that the dealer needs to provide the roadworthy certificate and is responsible for its accuracy.

The Suzuki Grand Vitara is kind of considered the last of the four-wheel-drives that can be successfully flat-towed. That’s because it has a driveline that has a neutral position where the wheels are entirely disconnected from the driveline. In cars without this facility, flat-towing is a no-go as damage will be done to the transmission if they are flat-towed (flat-towing, of course, referring to the practice of towing a vehicle without a trailer and, therefore, with all four of its wheels on the ground).

Even in a vehicle with a conventional automatic transmission which does, indeed, have a neutral position, the gearbox would be destroyed by flat towing as the driveshaft will still be turning the inside of the transmission. A car with a manual transmission should be able to be flat-towed, but finding a new car with a clutch pedal these days will be the big challenge. Certainly that’s the case in the type of multi-seater vehicle you’ve nominated. And many modern four-wheel-drives and SUVs have permanent all-wheel-drive which is also mechanically unsuitable for flat-towing.

The other catch is that a lot of car-makers say that flat-towing their product will void any driveline warranty. You need to check with each manufacturer before taking the plunge. And don’t forget that different states and territories have different rules about flat-towing (it is legal across Australia, but the details vary). You also need to keep in mind towing limits which vary across different makes and models. Flat-towing is big in North America, but it has never really caught on here.

The Suzuki J24B engine in your vehicle has a timing chain and not a timing belt. The chain should be good for the life of the engine provided the engine is serviced correctly.

Many owners of Suzukis of this era are shifting from the original green-coloured coolant to the long-life blue type (believe it or not, engine coolants are broadly identifiable by colour these days). Make sure that whatever brand you buy is borate and silicate-free, as this is important for Japanese engines (European engines, in comparison, need Phosphate-free coolant).

If you’re still unsure, you can buy coolant form a Suzuki dealership spare parts department and know that you’re getting the right product. One other tip; don’t mix coolants. Like oils, coolants are a sophisticated blend of base-product and additives and these formulations, when mixed, can cancel out some of the protection you’re paying for.

Stick with the respected brands and models like the Suzuki Grand Vitara or Nissan X-Trail. With your budget you should be able get into a 2008/2009 model.

Most SUVs are really AWDs with limited off-road capability, so it comes down to how serious you are about going bush. The Suzuki Grand Vitara would seem to be your best bet.

Camper trailers typically weigh in the range of 850 kg to 1200 kg without the extra weight of things like food, bedding, clothes, etc. so it’s probably best to look at a compact SUV. A Mazda CX5 will tow up to 1800 kg, which would seem to fit your needs. Then there’s a Kia Sportage (1600 kg), Mitsubishi Outlander (1600 kg), or Suzuki Grand Vitara (1600 kg).

It sounds like a problem with the door lock itself, so have a mechanic assess it for you and maybe replace it.

No doubt there are 4WDs available for $3100, but they will be old, worn out, and probably unroadworthy. Try something like a 2000-2001 Toyota RAV4, Honda CR-V, Nissan X-Trail, Subaru Forester, or Suzuki Grand Vitara, and buy the best one you can find.

I assume you want to buy a new car, so I would suggest a Suzuki Grand Vitara. It too is small, but you sit up high, and it’s a good car.