Audi Q5 Problems

You could have a problem anywhere in the wiring between the starter button and the starter motor. It could even be a problem with the starter motor itself. This function is computer controlled, too, so you may find the body computer is the root cause. An auto electrician will be able to check this out and diagnose the fault.

But there’s one thing you can check before that, and that is to remove and clean the contacts on the actual starter button. You will need to remove it from the dashboard (disconnect the car’s battery first) and carefully take the button apart and spray some terminal cleaner or contact cleaner on to the contacts. If you’re not confident to do this, the same auto electrician will be able to help you out.

These buttons (which are really switches) accumulate all sorts of grime and moisture from the air, the car’s interior and, of course, the fingers that operate the button.

While this version of the Audi Q5 uses a wet-clutch version of the dual-clutch transmission, failures and problems are not unknown. Generally, any shuddering or jerking in a DSG transmission suggest either worn clutch packs or a problem with the electronics that control the gearbox.

But it’s important to make sure that this is not an engine problem contributing to the jerking behaviour, so an electronic scan of the driveline is in order. This should help narrow down the potential causes and make diagnosis more accurate and repairs cheaper. The gearbox can be scanned, too, to check the operation of the clutch packs.

The best way forward here is to take the car to a workshop that knows Audis and have them pressure test the cooling system. Modern cars have sealed coolant systems, suggesting that they shouldn’t lose any coolant at all. The reality is a little different, and what may have happened is that your coolant level has been falling very slowly perhaps over a period of years until the level is low enough to trigger the warning message.

By pressure testing the system, any leak should become visible and can be fixed. Water pumps, radiators, heat exchangers and the network of coolant plumbing that makes up a modern car can all develop leaks. Sometimes the leak is so small, the coolant evaporates before it ever hits the ground which is why there’s no tell-tale puddle under the car each morning.

Don’t automatically jump to the conclusion that your car has a blown head gasket; there are lots of ways for coolant to escape, which is why it’s wise to keep an eye on the level on a weekly basis.

You haven’t told me what engine and transmission your car is fitted with, but if it’s one with the seven-speed DSG transmission, then this would not be the first time buyers have experienced problems. While not as troublesome as some dual-clutch gearboxes, the Audi’s DSG can wear over time, with symptoms including jerking on take-off, an inability to select a gear and, as you’ve noted, a selection of noises and clunks during shifts.

A transmission specialist should be able to scan the car electronically to see if the car throws up a fault code, and can also graph the performance of the transmission’s clutch packs to see if they’re behaving smoothly.

But don’t rule out something loose or worn in the front suspension or even a worn driveshaft. Both these things can contribute to clunks at low speed.

The reductant heater on this car is a heating element that stops the AdBlue from freezing. According to most sources, the heater is only called into operate at ambient temperatures of minus-11 Celsius or lower. So, unless you're a regular at Australia's snowfields, your car will probably never need this function. But while the car may work perfectly without a functioning reductant heater, you might find that it's technically unroadworthy on the basis of its emissions systems (of which the AdBlue is a part) are not all working properly.

Most times, failures of this heater revolve around the electronics that control it, but when that happens, the computer will usually flash up a check-engine light to let you know there's something wrong. Without this light, I'm unsure why your mechanic would think there's a problem with the heater system.

The recommended engine oil for your car is actually a 5W30 fully-synthetic. That goes for either the petrol or diesel-engined version of the Q5.

The recommended Audi Q5 engine oil is a fully synthetic oil with a viscosity rating of 5W30. Regardless of what engine is fitted to your Audi Q5 oil type and grade remains the same from 2017 onwards, regardless of whether the car in question is fitted with the two-litre turbo-petrol, two-litre turbo-diesel or the three-litre V6 engine.

In older, simpler cars than the Q5, an oil change is as simple as opening the drain plug to remove the old oil, spinning on a replacement oil filter, replacing the plug and refilling the engine with oil.

But the complex specifications of the modern Audi line-up mean that there’s often a bit more to this critical maintenance job. For instance, some of the fasteners Audi uses in the engine bay might require specialised tools. There are also sometimes complicated engine covers above and below the engine that need to be removed for a service to take place. Even turning off the service reminder light after the oil change can be confusing if you don’t have the knowledge or the gear to do it. Suddenly, a DIY job has just become a much bigger size task and “how to change oil on a Audi Q5” has become a very complex question.

For many Q5 owners, then, an oil change is a good job for an accredited service centre with a trained mechanic who can also advise on how often to change oil and the correct service interval for other important jobs.

The first thing to figure out is which version of the 2012 Q5 you have. See, in that year, Audi updated the Q5 and, in the interests of fuel saving, changed from a conventional hydraulic power-steering system to an electro-mechanical one. Each system has the potential to give problems, but for very different reasons. The change came in late 2012 (December) so your car is probably the earlier one, but a check of the build-plate will tell all.

In the case of normal power-steering, low fluid can cause the problems you've noted and is also likely to make the power steering noisy when you turn the wheel. In the electro-mechanical system, the fault could be with the electric motor that powers the steering assistance. In both cases, wear in the actual steering rack can cause the same symptoms. Either way, it needs to be checked by a specialist, as a car's steering is obviously a crucial system.

But before you do that, have the car's wheel alignment checked at a tyre shop. A car that is out of whack can sometimes exhibit very strange steering characteristics. And what about the absolute basics? When did you last check your tyre pressures? Low tyre pressure can also make the steering heavier than it should be. And it doesn't matter that you haven't had a flat tyre for years; tyres lose about one psi per month, just sitting in the driveway. That's why they need to be pressure-checked every few weeks.

This is an example of why you really shouldn't ignore warning lights as they flash up on your dashboard. In the case of the dual-clutch Audi transmission you have, the warning light indicates that there's a problem inside the transmission (often that the clutch-packs have overheated). Continuing to use the vehicle normally is not recommended as the transmission requires attention to prevent this overheating occurring again and causing permanent damage to the unit.

Audi certainly knew it had a problem with these transmissions back in the day and often the root cause was traced back to the mechatronics unit (the brain that controls the gearbox's clutches and selectors) and in many cases these units were replaced.

However, the chances of Audi attending to your problem now after many years of ignoring the warnings seems a bit remote. You might be lucky and discover that the warning is something as simple as a faulty sensor, but if there's damage inside the transmission, this won't be a cheap fix. Have the vehicle scanned and see what the transmission has been trying to tell you all these years. By the way, Audi's response at the time was in the form of a service bulletin, not a recall.