Articles by Marcus Craft

The Toyota Tundra is the latest in a long line of full-size American pick-ups to arrive on our shores. The left-hand-drive Tundra is converted to right-hand drive by Walkinshaw in Australia and, on paper, this big ute is a well-engineered, well-equipped and purpose-built towing and touring machine. But the Tundra has a $156,000-plus price-tag. Is the Toyota badge enough to justify this much money? 

Chinese utes have been making substantial in-roads into the Australian market over recent years.

Details have been hinted at, and speculated about, and shadowy arty teasers have further whet the appetite of Amarok fans everywhere but still information about the upcoming Walkinshaw VW Amarok remains scant.

When you’re on a vehicle-based camping trip, auxiliary power is crucial. A dual battery system – two separate batteries working in conjunction with each other but for different purposes – ensures your vehicle has start-up power and your campsite has consistent reliable power, sourced from the vehicle.A second battery, as part of a correctly wired and properly functioning system, will make sure you're able to start up your vehicle with your original battery and, using your second battery, you’ll also be able to optimise available power at camp and minimise any risk of running out of power while using your fridge, lights and any other camp accessories.To understand what a dual battery setup is and to find out which is the best system for your Toyota Landcruiser, Ford Ranger, VW Amarok, Isuzu D-Max or MU-X, Mitsubishi Triton, or just about anything, read on.A dual battery simply describes a battery system with a second or auxiliary battery that has been installed in addition to the vehicle’s original factory-fitted battery. The second battery is usually placed in a dedicated space on a purpose-built tray in a vehicle’s engine bay, cabin, rear-most load space, or in the tray (if the vehicle is a ute).Well, that depends on the system you’re having installed and whether you’re installing the set-up yourself (which is not recommended unless you’re very handy with the tools), or how much the mob doing the work for you charges for the dual battery system itself and the labour to fit it to your vehicle.Often it’s smarter to have a professional do it because if anything is incorrectly wired there's an increased risk of an electrical fire in the vehicle.As a guideline, expect to pay upwards of $2500 for the whole kit and caboodle to be fitted – that price includes approximately $1700 for the kit itself and anywhere up to $900 or more for 'Charge to fit product to vehicle' and any 'additional fit charge'.The aim of the extra power supply is to provide your campsite with readily available and consistent power, while not draining your main battery. Usually, a dual battery setup for a fridge prompts a 4WD tourer’s first foray into the realm of auxiliary power because keeping your food (and beers!) cold in a portable fridge is an integral factor in any happy trip away.A dual battery setup involves more than just installing a second battery, though. The two batteries – your vehicle’s starting battery and your auxiliary battery – are two separate, isolated systems.Your vehicle’s battery and alternator (the latter charging both batteries) are responsible for powering all vehicle-based gear while the engine is running; your second battery is responsible for powering all other camp-based gear, such as your 12V portable fridge, lights, laptops, inverters etc, when you are stopped and the ignition is turned off.A real-world dual battery setup includes a dual battery isolator, a dual battery monitor, all the necessary wiring and more. A dual battery isolator ensures that the two batteries are charged in order to keep the two power supplies topped up and working.A dual battery monitor, which allows the user to monitor voltage levels on both batteries just by checking an in-cabin read-out, is also key to maintaining convenient awareness and electronic control over the dual battery system at all times.There are plenty of dual battery setups available – including the Redarc dual battery system – and other reputable Aussie companies, such as Ironman 4x4, ARB and Projecta, are known for making top-quality electrical systems and battery-related products.Please note: An OME twin start-up battery setup – in which both batteries are intended as start-up batteries only – is not a dual-battery system, but the wiring can be sorted out to suit that system.This may be best left to the professionals but if you’re decent with the tools and know your way around a vehicle – and can get your head around a dual battery wiring diagram – then by all means give a dual battery installation a whirl.First, you need space enough for dual battery kit – either in your engine bay, in the cabin of your vehicle or in the tray (if you have a ute).A large deep-cycle battery needs a strong support and that’s usually in the form of a 3.0mm powder-coated steel tray on which the second battery will sit.Note: If your dual battery is positioned in a tub or load space, it can be fitted into a laser-cut, folded and welded dual battery box.That tray should be built to absorb hard-core off-roading punishment in order to protect the battery. If you’ve ever peeked under the bonnet of an outback touring Hilux and had a gander at its dual battery tray, or check out a Ford Ranger dual battery, you’ll have the right idea.Make sure you position your second battery well away from any heat sources, e.g. engine components that will become hot during long-distance trips etc.As for wiring and switchgear, in simple terms, a manual four-way switching approach relies on the user to dictate the battery system’s operational status: either its duty is to start the vehicle or to maintain power to the campsite. This system’s switch can be moved to a position where both batteries are being charged.Automatic solenoid switching – by way of a solenoid attached to your off-roader’s ignition wiring – will ensure the auxiliary battery is disconnected from the main battery when you turn off the vehicle’s engine and, when engine is switched back on, it is reconnected to the engine and recharged.Check at Aussie companies, such as Ironman 4x4, ARB, Redarc, Piranha and the like, for the best electrical system support set-ups around. You can buy the gear from them and do the work yourself or have them install it for you.For off-road touring, camping and caravanning, deep-cycle batteries are your best bet. There are several types of deep cycle batteries but AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) examples are considered the best and most versatile for fitment and use in off-roaders.Your choice of the best options for different scenarios/vehicle types hinges on how much power you will need to draw on at your campsite.Tourers nowadays often opt for a combination of auxiliary battery power and the use of solar panels or mats, rather than only relying on onboard batteries.Solar panels or flexible mats provide a great source of auxiliary power, but alone are no substitute for a comprehensive top-quality dual battery kit – all of these bits of equipment should be considered as parts of the power-supply puzzle and used in conjunction with each other.Also, check out a portable power pack as a handy power source, an adjunct to your main power supplies.So, how much will a dual battery setup cost? A deep-cycle battery alone can cost from $216 (for a 32AH 12V AGM deep cycle battery); and a dual-battery system is likely to set you back at least $900 (fitted) or more, depending on parts requested/used, wiring complexity, labour costs etc.Be aware that the second battery, its tray – no matter how robust it is – and the battery’s wiring and related electrical system may suffer damage due to engine bay heat, extreme temperatures, the violent repeated vibrations of outback corrugations, water, dirt or mud ingress and more.The rough nature of off-roading dictates that you should spend as much as your budget allows on the best quality gear you can find in order to enjoy your bush and beach adventures without fear of power failure.The best dual battery system for your 4x4 will be the one that suits your vehicle and your intended purpose. To find top-quality dual battery kits, visit one of Australia’s great aftermarket stores or stockists including, but not limited to, Ironman 4x4, TJM, ARB, Redarc and Piranha.

There are off-road vehicles on our roads loaded with 4WD accessories but the reality is that those vehicles may never be driven on terrain any more challenging than the slightly wet grassy carpark at the local soccer field.

Here's our wishlist for the next-generation Nissan Navara

The Mazda BT-50 range has been through a Ford Ranger-based generation and now the second phase of its Isuzu D-Max-based generation. This latest update has brought more safety gear, new wheels and exterior lighting, an upgraded multimedia system, as well as styling tweaks across the board, including to the interior trim. Prices have gone up across the range so is the new top-shelf SP worth a look?

Sometimes a new car’s price puts it out of reach of a potential buyer, or that buyer is simply at a stage in their life where a second-hand vehicle is a better fit for them.What are used cars?A used car (aka a second-hand or pre-owned car) is simply a car that is not new. It has been previously used and owned and is then resold through a car dealership, via a private seller, or an online marketplace (such as Gumtree Cars).Do they tend to be more prone to problems?Not necessarily but, by their very nature, they have been used before, so they’ve been subjected to wear and tear, as well as the previous owner’s (or owners’) good or bad maintenance habits – and, of course, used cars are older than new cars.However, new cars may also trouble their owners with myriad common car problems and are even sometimes subject to recalls over faults or car issues that only come to light after that new vehicle has been on sale and out in the real world for some time.The good news is consistent maintenance, vehicle awareness and car troubleshooting should help you to prevent any common problems in used carsHere are 10 common problem areas in used cars and we’ll work our way from the tyres up.Note if the vehicle in question is an AWD or 4WD, chances are it has been put through a tremendous amount of stress and strain on tough terrain, so it deserves even closer scrutiny before you even think about purchasing it.Tyres are your vehicle’s first – and hopefully only – point of contact with the ground, so your tyres should be in great condition with plenty of tread depth, no cracks in the tyre’s surface, and no uneven wear and tear.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice uneven tyre wear, damage (cuts or splits) or, worse, changes in the car’s on-road dynamics while you’re driving, for instance steering pulling in one direction, or high-speed vibrations, it’s time to get your tyres checked out by a pro because tyre strife is no joke.How can you avoid this problem?Regularly check tyre condition for wear and tear, always run tyres at the manufacturer recommended pressure (refer to the tyre placard in the vehicle or the driver’s manual), and have the tyres rotated (about every 5000-8000km) and balanced, and the wheels correctly aligned. Also, replace tyres if they are 10 years old or more – a tyre’s date of manufacture is stamped on its sidewall.If the brakes on a car aren’t working properly, then the issue can range from mildly annoying (best-case scenario) to dangerous (worst-case scenario). Faulty/damaged/worn-out brake pads, rotors, or callipers may lead to poor braking efficacy (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes that are slow to bite etc) and so increase the risk of an accident, minor or otherwise.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice any unusual noises from the brakes when you do brake (such as high-pitched screeching), or obvious poor performance (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes are slow to bite or bite with a jerky on-off action etc) or even a brake warning light coming on. The culprit may be the brake pads, rotors or callipers.How can you avoid this problem?Unfortunately, this is one of the common car problems but it can be remedied with diligent maintenance. Undertake regular maintenance (according to guidelines in the vehicle owner’s manual) and regularly check the condition of all of your brake pads.If there are odd noises coming from the brakes, your best bet is to tackle the issue as soon as you aware of it – don’t let it become any worse than it already is.There’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the brake pads and rotors checked and, if they’re too worn, get them replaced. While the mechanic is there, have them check for leaks, drain the brake fluid and replace, and, if needed, bleed the brake fluid.Any issue with the vehicle’s suspension is the next thing to watch out for and you’ll quickly recognise if there is something wrong because the car may ride and handle like a mechanical bull – well, not quite that bad but you get the idea.What are the signs of this problem?Suspension strife – worn-out or damaged shocks, struts etc. – will result in a choppy wayward ride and poor on-road handling with impacted steering.There may be noises coming from some part of your suspension set-up and your tyres may be wearing out unevenly and faster than they should.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with guidelines in the owner’s manual, and being sure to check all suspension components, will hopefully pick up any potential issues before they become serious.When there is an issue, there’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the shocks, struts and entire set-up scrutinised, and have any worn-out or damaged components replaced. If it’s an AWD or 4WD, it may have been punished in off-road situations and will need extra attention to avoid any issues down the track.The exhaust system gets rid of your car’s emissions and any problem with it quickly becomes obvious.What are the signs of this problem?Rust may be the culprit here, or loose exhaust pipes, or a leaking exhaust manifold (often indicated by a ticking or tapping noise in the engine, an illuminated ‘check engine’ icon, and a strong exhaust smell).Any strife with the exhaust system may result in poor fuel efficiency and – warn your neighbours! – a too-loud exhaust note.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with the recommendations in the owner’s manual.Make sure you check all exhaust components when you’re scrutinising a car and hopefully that will pick up any potential issues before they become serious.To fix this problem, you’ll have to replace any rusted, damaged or broken parts, any loose sections of the exhaust will have to be tightened, and the leaking exhaust manifold will have to be sorted out.Any issues with your electrical system – lights, indicators, brake lights, power windows etc – should be addressed as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Electrical problems may manifest as headlights (or other lights) that work only intermittently or not at all, power windows that don’t work properly, or interior lights that are faulty.A blown or faulty fuse, damaged or old wiring, or even a battery issue may be the cause of an electrical system malfunction.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of minor issues becoming major issues.Conduct a full inspection of the electrical system (including wiring), replace any blown or faulty fuses, and check the battery and replace if required.A faulty cooling system could result in an overheating engine, which may become even more serious engine strife and lead to damage to – or even failure of – other components in your car.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications of a cooling system problem include that aforementioned overheating engine, the engine temperature gauge rising to a high level quickly, or an obvious coolant leak.Potential causes may include a split or clogged coolant hose, a leaking radiator, or a faulty water pump.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues. Pay attention: if the coolant system warning light/icon is illuminated on your dash driver display, then address the issue immediately – check coolant levels and the radiator and hoses.Potential fixes include flushing the cooling system, and replacing the radiator.Any strife in the fuel system – which consists of fuel filter, pump, injectors (or carburettor if the car is very old), and, of course, tank – means fuel delivery to the engine is compromised and, as a result, the car’s overall performance will suffer.What are the signs of this problem?If the car exhibits any of these signs – rough-as-guts idling, lacklustre acceleration, engine misfires, loss of power at high revs, and/or reduced fuel efficiency – then it’s a strong indication something is amiss in the fuel system.The cause? It could be anything from a clogged, old or even incorrect fuel filter, or pump; carbon deposits in the fuel delivery set-up, poor quality fuel (beware the dirty go-juice!) or something else.How can you avoid this problem? Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Check fuel lines, and the fuel filter, pump and replace as necessary. Clean clogged injectors or get a pro to take a look if you want a second opinion and have those replaced if needed.Engine oil is a lubricant designed to reduce damaging friction created in the inner workings of an internal-combustion engine. Without enough clean engine oil, mechanical parts wear out faster than they would otherwise.An oil leak can signal a minor problem which has the potential to become a major problem if you don’t crash-tackle it at the source as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications that oil is leaking from the car: a puddle of oil on your driveway, low oil level, and/or engine overheating.Oil leaks may be caused by too-low oil levels, worn-out gaskets and seals, or faulty oil filters or other components.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance is key. Pay attention to the condition of all oil-related components and fix leaks immediately to avoid minor issues becoming major issues.Always use the correct type of oil (read the owner’s manual) and replace any faulty parts as soon as possible.Get a professional to take a look if you want a second opinion.A fault in a manual transmission (a gearbox) or in an automatic transmission, if left unchecked, may result in costly repairs down the track so it’s best to address any transmission issues as soon as humanly possible.What are the signs of this problem?There may be clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or it may slip out of gear, strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets), and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Maintain correct transmission fluid level (refill or change as needed), check for transmission leaks and consult a mechanic if repairs or replacements parts are needed.Overview of this problem and what it entailsProblems with steering in a used car – or, for that matter, any car – is a serious safety issue.What are the signs of this problem?Steering strife is obvious from the get-go:Any trouble with turning the steering wheel (potential cause: power-steering fluid leak somewhere in the steering set-up)Vibrations through the steering wheel (potential cause: possible contaminant build-in the power-steering system)Steering pulls to one side (potential cause: worn-out steering gear, lack of power-steering fluid)Loose-feeling steering wheel (potential cause: worn-out steering rack, tie rod)Steering wheel slips when you turn it (potential cause: pump issue, worn-out steering rack mount, or worn or loose power-steering drive belt)Grinding noises when you turn the steering wheel (probable cause: steering gear problem)Screeching noise when you turn the steering wheel (possible cause: loose or worn-out power-steering drive belt or low power-steering fluid level)How can you avoid this problem?Conducting a bit of car troubleshooting and regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any common problems in used cars becoming major problems.Regularly check the power steering fluid level, steering pump, hoses and steering rack. Note if the power steering fluid is foaming or discoloured, there may be air or water in the system, so it’s not doing its job properly and should be replaced.

How long does a car battery last?A fully charged or new car battery can be reasonably expected to last three to six years.What is the average lifespan of a car battery? Or how long does it take for a car battery to die?Between three to six years, but the average lifespan of a car battery may differ between batteries and vehicles depending on several factors, including the make and model of the battery, how many discharge cycles it has gone through, how well it’s maintained, the condition of the host vehicle’s charging system, and whether the host vehicle has any other electrical faults.A new car battery should last three to six years.Expect to get about 2000 charge/discharge cycles out of a car battery before performance really suffers.Yes, and battery manufacturers include those life warranty details and more on their products.Lead-acid batteries are commonly used in cars and they generally last between three to five years.Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are advanced maintenance-free lead-acid batteries that are claimed to have a lifespan of six to seven years.Lithium-Ion batteries are generally used in EVs and are claimed to have aN eight-year lifespan or more.Car manufacturers generally guarantee their EV batteries for eight years/160,000km, but some EV experts reckon that electric car battery life is somewhere between 10 and 20 years.That’s anyone’s guess, but it’s been guesstimated as 26 years of ownership without a significant loss of performance or capacity.A warranty of eight years/160,000km applies to Tesla’s rear-wheel-drive Model 3 and Model Y models, or eight years/192,000km for all other Teslas in Australia.Hybrid battery warranties are generally for eight years or 160,000km, but hybrid batteries may last up to 10 years or about 160,000km-200,000km.A fully charged or new car battery can be reasonably expected to last three to six years.As above.You’d have to be pretty lucky…The older a battery is the more charge/discharge cycles it’s been through, so it’ll yield poor performance as it draws closer to its end of life.A car battery lifespan will be impacted if the battery is incorrectly hooked up (poor mounting, loose cables) or if it’s inserted in the wrong type of vehicle. For example, a truck requires a battery with a higher capacity that what may be needed in a small car, so if a small car battery is used in a truck, it probably won’t last long because of the high demands placed on it by the truck’s larger engine and systems – a car battery capacity may not be enough.Poor driving habits also affect the life of car battery, for example, frequent short-distance trips mean the battery is short-changed in terms of charging. Regular long trips are best for the battery.If a vehicle is left to sit inactive for too long – two weeks or more – then it’ll likely give you strife when you try to start it. Your best bet is to drive it for 15 minutes or so, at least once a week to keep it charged up and ready to go.A car battery is the vehicle’s starter battery, so if accessories, or lights etc. are left on in the vehicle, but the vehicle itself is not running, then that will drain much-needed power from that starter battery.How long’s a piece of string? If you want to run accessories galore, get a dual-battery set-up: one battery is the starter battery, the other battery – the auxiliary – is used to power fridges, lights, TVs etc. Dual-battery systems are popular with off-road tourers.If there’s an electrical fault in the vehicle that will also affect how much charge is being used and how long the battery will last.Extreme temperatures – hot or cold – impact battery longevity. High temps can lead to more internal wear, and cold temps can affect the battery’s performance and its ability to hold charge.Be sure to keep the battery terminals as clean as possible (free of corrosion), check your battery’s charge levels, and regularly test your battery.Using a multimeter (from $10 to buy), set it to between 15 and 20 volts, attach each of its mini alligator clips to the battery’s positive and negative terminals, and read the voltage on the multimeter’s screen – a healthy car battery voltage should have at least 12.6 volts.Your engine is more sluggish than usual, or it takes longer to start.You’re forced to frequently jump-start the vehicle in question.The car’s interior lights are weaker than usual or they flicker when you try to start the car.The actual battery casing itself looks old, swollen, or damaged.There’s noticeable corrosion on the battery terminals.The battery icon is illuminated in the driver’s display.Use a portable battery charger: the charger’s red alligator clip goes on the battery’s positive terminal, while the black alligator clip goes on the battery’s negative terminal, then switch on the charger and start charging. Some chargers automatically identify the battery once connected. On others you will have to manually input that info. Select the charging amperage (opt for lower amperage if possible) and Roberto’s your uncle.Use another vehicle to jump-start the car battery that is ‘dead’ (i.e. the battery is fully discharged). Park the nose of the ‘live’ vehicle as close as you can to the front of the dead one – this is so the jumper cables can reach both batteries. Then:Attach one red clip to the positive terminal on the dead vehicleAttach one red clip to the positive terminal on the live vehicleAttach one black clip to the negative terminal on the live vehicleAttach one black clip to an unpainted metal surface on the dead vehicle (thus grounding the charge).Start the live carStart the dead carKeep the live car running for a few minutes until you’re sure the dead car is holding charge.Then keep the dead car running for 15 minutes or more.Then remove the clips in this order:Remove the black clip from the unpainted metal surface on the dead vehicleRemove the black clip from the negative terminal on the live vehicleRemove the red clip from the positive terminal on the live vehicleRemove the red clip from the positive terminal on the dead vehicleNote: if you have to frequently jump-start the vehicle in question, then it’s time to get a new battery.A car needs about 12 volts to start.

Isuzu's MU-X range has undergone a much-anticipated update and it includes the introduction of a new variant: the new top-of-the-range X-Terrain.The X-Terrain is a seven-seat 4WD wagon and - as part of this new MU-X range - it has an updated chassis, a tweaked suspension set-up, some new safety tech and a recalibrated rough terrain mode (Isuzu's boosted off-road traction control system).