Holden Astra Problems

You could have a fault with the car’s wiring. The starter-motor takes its power from the fat, red and black leads that attach to the battery, but it also needs a low-voltage signal from the ignition key that tells it to do its thing. If there’s any sort of loose or missing wire, you might not be making the necessary electrical connections. You could also find that there’s an on-board security system that is blocking the starter-motor from turning. You could even find that the ignition key has a flat battery and is not unlocking the car’s on-board computer.

You say that the battery has voltage, but I wonder how you checked this. You can often put a multimeter across the battery terminals and see 12 volts, but this can be what’s called a surface charge that’s strong enough to light up the dashboard, but then disappears when you put the battery under load (by trying to start the car). Attach the multimeter and check the voltage while actually trying to start the engine. You may find you have a dead battery after all.

When you look at how the Park setting works in an automatic transmission, you can see how this could happen. Basically, Park is engaged by a small pin that (typically) slides into the transmission’s output shaft and locks it, preventing the shaft from turning and effectively locking the drive wheels.

The problem is that the Park pin (also called a pawl) is almost comically small for the job it has to do. The point being that Park pawls have been known to fail, at which point, the car will be free to move if the park brake isn’t applied.

Best practice when parking an automatic car is to stop where you want to park, but leave the transmission in Drive and apply the foot brake. Then apply the park-brake, take your foot off the brake and let the park brake take the weight of the car. Then select Park. You’ll still have the security of being in Park, but you won’t have the car’s weight resting on that little park pawl.

You might be lucky and simply have a low transmission fluid level thanks to a leak, or perhaps even a selector that is not properly connected to the transmission.

But the fact that the transmission works in Reverse but not Drive suggests something internally wrong. You could be looking at a broken torque converter, failed clutch or band, a faulty pump, blocked valve body or even a broken gear set. A transmission specialist is going to be your best bet here.

A leak in the tail-light lens is a remarkably common problem in a lot of vehicles. It’s even more likely if the vehicle has previously been in a crash and the tail-lights replaced by cheap imported units. You’ll spot a leak like this by condensation that will form inside the lens on a warm day.

Your mechanic is correct, too, if water gets into the light unit, it can then make it into the boot or hatchback area. From there, it will wet the carpet or boot-liner and potentially run down inside the rear quarter panel or the area where the spare tyre lives, where it will sit and start the process of rusting the car’s metal. If there’s a musty smell when you open the hatch, then you probably have a leak and it needs to be fixed pronto.

For a start, it’s never a good idea to drag a car anywhere with the wheels, hand-brake and steering locked. You can damage anything from the transmission, steering column, driveline and even ruin (flat-spot) the tyres.

If the clicking noise when you drive it wasn’t there before, then a mechanic would suspect that there’s been damage done to the front driveshafts. This would be consistent with the car being forcibly dragged along the ground. If you’re worried, have a mechanic check the car over and send the repair bill to your (now possibly ex-) housemate.

If it’s only the low beam light not working and we’re not talking about crash damage here, then you can change the globe at home. You’ll need a H7 replacement globe for the Astra, and the blown left-hand side globe can be removed by undoing a small, plastic access hatch inside the engine bay at the back of the light, squeezing the spring clip that holds the globe in its mount, and then removing the wiring plug. Then, you take the new globe and reverse the process, being careful not to touch the glass part of the globe as that can damage the new globe.

That all sounds pretty simple and it is if you’ve done it before, but it’s also a bit fiddly if you’re a first-timer. But before spending money at a workshop to have the globe changed, check out some of the bigger chain auto parts stores. Many of these have a free fitting service for things like wiper blades and globes.

It sounds very much like the ignition barrel has failed and is jamming the key inside. But it could be something else, too. Modern cars often have an interlock between the gear selector and the ignition key. If the car isn’t in Park, it won’t release the key as a means of making sure you leave the car in a safe state (where it can’t roll away). If any of the micro-switches and sensors that control this function have failed (or are in the process of failing) you might find that to be the cause.

Having a bolt snap off while you’re undoing it is a royal pain and can bring take the car off the road if it’s a critical fastener. You’re probably best off visiting a mechanical engineering shop (or good workshop) who will have the tools necessary to remove the broken chunk of bolt still lodged in the car.

Techniques vary according to how much bolt is still showing, access to it and even what it’s made from. In some cases, the engineer will use what’s called a bolt-extractor kit which screws into the broken bolt and extracts it without damaging the existing threads. If you’re lucky there will still be enough of the broken bolt exposed to allow the use of vice-grips to remove it. Sometimes a small section of new metal can be welded to the broken stud or bolt to give purchase and in extreme cases there’s even a process called spark eroding which is more expensive but can really save the day. The last resort is usually drilling the broken bolt out as this can destroy the threads in the part, requiring even more work to ultimately replace the fastener. In each case, penetrating fluid and/or the application of heat will be the first step to try to free or loosen the broken fastener before trying to extract it.

Rather than an internal transmission problem, this is probably a simple case of loose fittings where the selector meets the gearbox or even where the selector pivots inside the centre-console. The moving parts inside this mechanism can wear over time and lead to sloppiness in the shift lever itself. You can remove the centre-console panels and see for yourself if there’s excess play or movement in the connections. The fix might be new bushes or guides, but it shouldn’t be a huge job.

The first thing to do is find the owner’s manual and any paperwork that came with the car when it was brand new. Many dealerships wrote the security code on a business card that was slipped into the owner’s folder, others sometimes write the code somewhere on one of the manual’s pages. Either of which kind of defeats the purpose of a secret code, but it was common practice.

If that doesn’t pay off, you may have to remove the radio from the dashboard, record the unit’s serial number and contact either Holden or the stereo’s manufacturer (I think Blaupunkt, in this case) to see if it has records of what security code went with what radio.

Finally, there’s another long-shot that might pay off. Your car has an individual VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) which should be recorded on a metal plate at the edge of the windscreen, under the glass. The last four digits of this VIN are often the security code for the radio fitted at the factory. It doesn’t work on every make and model, but it’s free and worth a shot.