Holden Cruze Problems

I can only hope so. Trying to start an engine with an obvious and large fuel leak like the one you’ve described is really tempting fate. This leak needs to be fixed before attempting to start or drive the vehicle as it’s a major fire hazard.

Even turning on the ignition will have the pump spraying fuel everywhere from the leak, so I’d disconnect the battery until the hose is repaired and the leak stopped. There’s a chance the computer has detected the lack of fuel pressure, but whether that’s what is preventing the engine turning over is another thing. You may have multiple problems.

You’re right that error code P0171 on this car equals an engine that is running too lean. That is, There’s either not enough fuel or too much air in the cylinders. On this engine, many owners have found that the PCV valve can fail, but also that the rocker cover itself can contribute to vacuum leaks. If you can hear air hissing anywhere, then a vacuum leak somewhere around the engine is a pretty good bet.

But let’s not forget that a lean mixture can be caused by not enough fuel, as well as too much air. In which case a check of the fuel filter, fuel pump delivery volume and pressure are warranted. You can also get a lean error code from a faulty or dirty MAF sensor in the engine’s intake system.

The filling point for this transmission is on top of the gearbox, under the ECU (drive-line computer). So, to access it, you’ll need to move the computer (which attaches to the battery tray) out of the way. Take lots of photos before removing bits and pieces so you’ll know how it all goes back together.

However, it’s doubtful that a lack of gearbox oil is your problem here. If the oil was low, the transmission would probably be making some seriously bad noises or would be completely seized up, not just refusing to shift out of reverse. The refusal to abandon reverse probably has more to do with a mechanical selector problem. But don’t rule out a worn or maladjusted clutch, either.

The three brake lights are almost certain to be on the same circuit, meaning that if two are working, the third one is likely to be suffering from something as simple as a blown globe. Perhaps the globe is loose in its socket, but if two out of three are working, then you probably don’t have an issue with the wiring or fuses.

The wiper issue could be to do with the body computer (which controls a huge number of a modern car’s functions) but, equally, could be something as simple as dirty contacts in the switch part of the stalk that controls the wipers. Some contact-cleaning spray into the switch might do the trick.

The gasket in question is probably the head gasket and when this fails, it can allow the engine oil and coolant to mix, which is why you’re seeing oil in the coolant expansion tank. If you check the engine’s oil dipstick, you may find that coolant has found its way into the sump, mixing with the oil as well, giving the latter a milky quality rather than appearing clear and clean.

This would have been a potential warranty claim back when the car was new, but at 11 years of age – even with your low mileage – it would be a miracle if Holden agreed to fix it as part of a warranty job.

This is a slightly tricky one because while both the SRi and SRi-V were fitted with the same engine, this point in time marked a change in specification. Around March of 2013, Holden switched the SRi and SRi-V engines form the 1.4-litre unit to the 1.6-litre unit. The automatic transmission was updated with a sport-shift mode and predictive down shifting, although physically the automatic and manual transmissions were carried over to the 1.6-litre version.

On the surface, this sounds like a viable swap, but you could run into wiring and computer problems in trying to make what was a 1.4-litre car `talk’ to the 1.6-litre engine. The 1.6-litre engine also used direct fuel injection, so you’d need the entire engine management system and computer to go with the swap. There may also be physical differences in things like airbox design and exhaust locations, too, so you need to drag out the tape measure and make an assessment based on measurements and facts. However, if your 2013 car was one from later in that year, it will already have the 1.6-litre engine and the swap to an engine from a 2014 car should be pretty straightforward.

Any time you have a soft brake pedal, you also have the potential for sudden brake failure. On that basis, you really shouldn’t drive this car anywhere, just in case the entire system decides to fail at the worst possible moment.

Meantime, the noise you’re hearing could be the sound of a leaking brake booster which is losing vacuum and, therefore, braking pressure. But if that was the case, you’d expect the brake pedal to go hard and require more effort to push it, not the other way around.

In many cases, a soft brake pedal is an indication of air in the system. The system should be full of brake fluid, not a combination of fluid and air. That’s because brake fluid is incompressible and, therefore, transfers all the braking force to the brake pads and rotors, stopping the car effectively. Air, on the other hand, is very compressible, and its presence will take away the brakes’ efficiency leading to the soft pedal you’re feeling. But it’s not just a soft pedal; you’ll also experience longer stopping distances and less outright braking power when you need it in an emergency.

Your car may need a brake overhaul, new brake fluid or perhaps just a process called bleeding (where the air is removed from the system). Either way, don’t drive it any farther.

This model Cruze used a toothed rubber timing belt, rather than a timing chain. Holden recommended the belt be changed at 90,000km intervals. It’s not a job to ignore, either, as a snapped timing belt will often turn the engine to junk in an instant.

A cracked turbocharger intake pipe is a pretty common problem as this tubing has to withstand high temperatures and the force of the turbo’s boost. You really wouldn’t bother trying to fix this, and a replacement piece of tubing is the proper fix.

Just make sure you get the right piece of tubing as there are different pipes of different shapes that run between the turbocharger and intercooler, and the intercooler and the engine. It’s quite possible to change these yourself, but modern engine bays can be pretty tight and you might find it’s a fiddlier job than you imagined.

While you’re in there, check the condition of the clamps that secure the tubing, too. You may wish to replace them at the same time. I’ve seen replacement pipe kits for anywhere from $200 to $300 for this make and model. Online sellers are plentiful, but conventional parts stores should also be able to help you out.

I’ll assume by 'in' you mean the fan that blows climate-controlled air into the cabin and not the fan that cools the radiator under the bonnet. Like anything else powered by an electric motor, these should be almost silent, although the sound of the actual air rushing through the trunking (heater plumbing) and out through the vents can usually be heard when the fan is running full blast.

The most common causes for this noise to change are a failed bearing in the motor which will also potentially affect its running speed, or something foreign caught in the fan’s blades (leaves and dross from parking under trees is a common cause of this).

Cleaning out the fan’s trunking and/or replacing the fan is the solution, but in some cases, this involves fairly major disassembly of the car’s dashboard and a huge labour bill.