Mazda BT-50 2014 Problems

A squeak when taking off from rest could be anything from a brake problem to a wheel bearing fault, a noisy engine drive-belt, bent axle, a dry suspension bush, worn universal joint or just about a hundred other things, including the driveshaft you already suspect.

Of potentially greater concern is the cut-off exhaust system or, more correctly, the previous owner. Anybody who cuts up an exhaust to make more noise is also a likely candidate to have driven the vehicle hard. It might be better to find a vehicle that hasn’t been messed with and potentially abused.

A sawn-off exhaust system shouldn’t harm the turbocharger or engine, but it can make a difference to performance due to reduced back-pressure. It also makes me wonder what else has been changed of fiddled with in the name of more power. Sometimes the performance will actually be improved, but you also open a can of legal and insurance worms by changing things like factory exhaust systems in what is a fairly agricultural way.

It's quite probable that the check-engine light was triggered by the worn out condition of the battery you replaced, not the brand new one being fitted. Such cars hate low voltages, and that's precisely what a worn battery produces. That said, changing the battery can sometimes cause a modern, computerised car to throw a fault code, and when that happens, the check-engine light will illuminate.

You can try to re-set the vehicle's computer by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour. Then reconnect the battery and see if the light has disappeared. If it hasn't, it may be that the computer simply needs to relearn a few parameters after having been disconnected from the power when the original battery change was made. A decent drive might return things to normal.

But don't forget the basics: Check the condition and cleanliness of the battery leads, terminals and make sure that all the connections are tight. If there's still no joy, have the vehicle electronically scanned and let the computer tell you precisely what's wrong.

Even though this is a light commercial vehicle aimed at working folks, these later utilities are quite sophisticated in terms of their drivelines. Which is another way of saying that there are dozens of sensors and electronic control modules, all of which can give trouble. The powertrain light is trying to tell you that something is amiss under the bonnet and the lack of power is the symptom that goes with it.

An electronic scan of the car’s on-board computer is the first step in determining precisely what’s wrong and, as well as throwing up the root cause of the problem, is very likely to save you a lot of time and money in the long run. Replacing random parts in the hope that you’ve identified the correct one is a great way to waste hours and hours and lots of dollars.

You shouldn’t be using Park as a brake, that’s not what it is intended for, and could damage the transmission. If you want to stop the vehicle change down through the ratios manually and apply the brakes. The problem is unlikely to be the wiring harness, it sounds like it’s deeper within the transmission. Have your dealer check it, or take it to an automatic transmission specialist.

It won’t be a gearbox fault, and it won’t be air in the fuel. It’s happening on first starts, so look for something that’s amiss with it during the cold start phase. It’s probably not getting the required enrichment. Check the engine sensors.

It’s certainly something that should be fixed under warranty, but it’s not something that would normally be the subject of a recall. Recalls are for issues of safety where there is a risk to life and limb.

No. That’s an odd one and needs investigation to determine what’s gone wrong. I’d suggest consulting a diesel engine specialist.

We have had one or two other complaints about the rear springs on the Ranger, which presumably is the same as the BT-50. Like you I would be concerned if the springs on my vehicle were inverted, and I would not be happy about them riding on the bump stops, and I too would question the vehicle's ability to do what it is claimed to be capable of. I would take it to a suspension specialist and have it uprated to do what you want to do with it.

It's OK but the Ford Ranger and Mazda BT-50 are better. The Mazda gets The Tick based on lower prices for better value.

It's too early for a reliability read on classy utes such as the Ford Ranger/Mazda BT50 and VW Amarok, which with their lusty turbo diesels are great for heavy work.