Mitsubishi Challenger Problems

Some Mitsubishi models in the past have had problems with a rough surface on the head-gasket sealing surface of the crankcase,. This has led to head gaket failures and coolant loss. This was fixed by about 2014 with a different machining process at the factory, so this could be your problem.

At the time, Mitsubishi issued a service bulletin for this problem and was modifying cars to fix them. However, whether this bulletin would still apply in 2025 is the big question. However, it would certainly be worth contacting Mitsubishi Australia’s customer service department to see if there’s still assistance available.

Most factory roof bar systems are only designed for light duty stuff and will have a maximum capacity of between about 50kg and 100kg. So, by the time you add your 75kg tent plus whatever humans are going to be sleeping in it, you’d be way over the limit and in real danger of collapsing the whole deal onto the car’s roof panel.

Most people who fit roof-top tents or use that real estate to store things like spare tyres, fuel cans and camping gear, opt for an aftermarket roof-rack system which is much better able to cope with higher loads. Try a four-wheel-drive accessories store in the first instance and remember that to make a roof-top tent as safe as possible, you’ll also need to find a ladder that fits the car properly to get in and out safely.

The good news is the Challenger was and is a popular choice for campers, so you should be able to find what you need on the aftermarket.

Under Australian Consumer Law, all brand-new cars sold here must come with a factory warranty, but it’s up to the manufacturer where to set the time and distance limits for that model. But even the most generous car-maker isn’t going to apply a warranty to a car that is now two decades old and has covered goodness knows how many kilometres.

For reference, most new-car warranties now cover a vehicle for between five and seven years. You will sometimes find a manufacturer will help out with some of the cost of repairs if the vehicle is only slightly out of warranty (and then, usually on a pro-rata basis). And that will only ever happen if the vehicle is question has an absolutely perfect service record.

If your engine has multiple problems, the best advice might be to look for a good, tested second-hand engine and replace the whole thing.

This definitely does sound like a build-up of carbon and soot inside the intake system of the engine. Believe it or not, this is not an uncommon problem and occurs partly because of the emissions controls forced upon engine manufacturers.

The diesel engine in your car features an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system which means the engine inhales a portion of its exhaust so that it goes through the engine twice and is burned more completely. That's good for emissions, but it means that exhaust soot is being consumed by the engine via the intake system.

Combine that with the oily fumes from the crankcase ventilation system (which also feeds into the intake) and you can soon wind up with a black, sticky, sooty glug that blocks the internal airways much as cholesterol blocks human blood vessels. In some cases, the only way to fix this is to remove the intake system and manually clean it out. This can be time consuming and expensive, but could easily be why your check-engine light is being triggered.

The other bads news is that this could happen again over time. The solution to that is to fit a quality air-oil separator (also known as a catch-can) which keeps the oil fumes out of the equation.

This model Challenger did have a history of engine overheating, largely due to poor surface preparation between the cylinder head and crankcase, allowing coolant to be consumed by the engine. Mitsubishi made production changes that resulted in a smoother head-gasket mating surface, but that's no help to owners of the earlier version.

In any case, that probably shouldn't affect the transmission and if it's dropping into neutral of its own accord then something – possibly electronic – is going wrong., It's unlikely to be a limp-home response as being in neutral doesn't allow you to limp anywhere, let alone home. But it could be a legitimate response to a transmission heat situation. Have you checked the level of transmission fluid?

A scan of the vehicle might throw up a clue, but it could also easily be something as simple as a transmission selector that is poorly adjusted and allowing the gearbox to select neutral on rough on uneven ground. Another possibility is that the transmission is, indeed, getting hot as a result of the engine temperature creeping up. The transmission cooler is part of the engine's cooling system, so the two are definitely linked.

The eyebrow height is measured from the centre of the wheel, vertically to the edge of the wheel arch. The vehicle needs to be on flat ground and unladen for this measurement to be taken. In the case of a 2014 Challenger, the standard front eyebrow height is 542mm and the rear eyebrow height is 552mm.

A fuel blockage is definitely one possibility. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? But in the case of the earlier, petrol-powered Challenger, don’t disregard other things such as an ignition problem which could involve spark plugs, ignition leads or some component of the distributor or coil(s). Has the vehicle sat idle for any length of time? Modern fuel goes `off’ pretty quickly and poor or rough running is a classic symptom of that phenomenon.

If your car is the later diesel version, the same comments regarding the fuel filter apply, but the situation is magnified as the fuel systems on these modern, common-rail turbo-diesels are quite complex and run at enormous injection pressures. Sorting out a rough running problem in one of these Later Challengers is best done by first electronically scanning the vehicle to see if its on-board computer throws up any fault codes. Those messages can then be decoded and you’ll have a much better idea of what’s wrong. Frankly, the problem could be anything form a high-pressure pump failing to a throttle-position sensor sending false information back to the computer.

If the engine runs when you apply some throttle but won’t idle, I’d be drawn to the idle stepper-motor which is a small electronic actuator that is designed to keep the engine at a stable, steady idle when no throttle is applied. It’s a pretty simple fix, but I’d also check things such as fuel delivery pressure and ensure that the ignition system is in good condition, also. Don’t forget air and fuel filters, either, they’re simple things but critical to how an engine behaves. Low battery voltage can also make an engine like the Challenger’s play up at idle, too. Also, have the throttle-position sensor checked. If this fails, it can leave the computer guessing about what the accelerator pedal is trying to tell it.

It does sound as if the compressor is cycling too frequently. Take it too an air-conditioning mechanic and have the system checked. The fluid might need topping up.