Mitsubishi Magna Problems

A 2002 Magna in decent condition is around the $2000 to $3000 mark, Karen. So depending on what’s wrong with your car, the value in 'poor condition' could be as little as a few hundred dollars. If we’re talking major panel damage, flaking paint, rust and a car that needs new brakes or suspension, you could be looking at the vehicle’s scrap value which would be between $150 and $250 at current rates.

It definitely could be the transmission’s main pump. Without this pump working properly, it can’t create the pressure necessary to select gears via the valve-body or indeed, produce enough drive force to actually get the car to move.

But, you could also be looking at a broken valve body, faulty selector cable from the cabin to the transmission, a broken torque converter or a complete, catastrophic internal failure of the gearbox. Instead of guessing, take it to a transmission specialist who is very likely to have seen this very problem many times before.

Find a new tyre guy. There's clearly something wrong with your car and it needs to be fixed before it's driven any farther. Early Magnas had no provision for altering the rear wheel alignment, but by the time your car rolled off the line, Mitsubishi had changed the design of the rear axle to allow for some wheel alignment adjustment. This is a good place to start.

But really, if you can hear the tyres physically scrubbing while you drive, then you potentially have a bigger problem. And it could be related to a recall that Mitsubishi issued back in 2004. It appears that a bad batch of raw materials meant that the stamped lower control arm on the rear suspension of some Magnas was prone to early failure. The problem became apparent when the arm actually split (at either end) allowing the wheel alignment to become way out of whack. If that's happened to your car, it would explain the symptoms, but also means that it's dangerous to drive at all. At the very least it won't steer properly or predictably and that makes it a danger to other road users.

It should be located at the front under the inner guard. Look up between the bumper and the support panel and you should see it.

Your consumption is about right for that model Magna. It’s a relatively large and heavy car with a big, powerful V6, and 2001 engine technology. They aren’t a popular car today; they don’t have the safety, economy, or appeal of other, newer cars.

Perhaps part of the reason for the car's high fuel consumption is your statement that it goes like the clappers. Drive it like that and fuel consumption can spiral. That's especially so of this model which, with its all-wheel-drive, had quite a bit more driveline friction than the front-wheel-drive Magnas.

However, 20 litres per 100km on the highway suggests there's something else contributing, so an electronic scan of the car should throw up problems like a blocked catalytic converter, stretched timing chains, or a lock-up torque converter that isn't locking up. Don't forget the basics such as tyre pressures, binding brakes and even the condition of the fuel system including the pump, filter and injectors. One or more fuel injectors which are worn and prone to dribbling when they should be shut off can easily cause fuel consumption to spike.

It could be dozens of things, but a transmission specialist should be able to diagnose it quickly. This is an older, well-known car and there’s not much a good Mitsubishi mechanic won’t be able to assess accurately.

But before you call a tow-truck, check the level of fluid in the transmission via the dipstick. If there’s no – or low – oil, you might have figured out why the vehicle won’t move. The job then becomes one of working out where the transmission fluid went, because these are sealed systems and shouldn’t need topping up between transmission services.

Look behind the left hand headlight, it should be next to the windscreen washer reservoir.

Look behind the left hand headlight, it should be next to the windscreen washer reservoir.

Before you even start replacing bits and pieces on a hunch, have the car electronically scanned. That will often tell you precisely what’s wrong with the car, and you can go from there, replacing only the non-functioning parts rather than a heap of components that are still working fine.

Beyond that, start with the basics. The most likely cause of an intermittent miss like the one you’ve described is a problem with the ignition system. Sometimes, something as simple as a change of spark plugs will fix the problem, and that’s especially so because that electronic scan we were talking about often won’t detect a dead spark plug.

From there, work your way through to the ignition leads and coils (a coil with a small crack in its plastic body can lead to a miss like this one). If all that checks out, you then need to start looking at the fuel delivery in terms of filters and pump pressure. This is all first-principle stuff for mechanics, but a modern car’s onboard diagnostics are so good, that a scan is definitely the first place to start.