Mitsubishi Triton 2017 Problems

Squeaking when a car’s suspension moves up and down is usually down to a couple of things. Either there’s wear in a ball-joint or suspension bush, or the bushes and joints are full of dry dust. Have you driven the Triton off-road in sand or dust recently? You might find that some dust has managed to work its way into the rubber bushings and is causing the noise.

At worst, you may have damage to something in the suspension that is placing a load where it shouldn’t or perhaps even rubbing where it shouldn’t. With the vehicle securely parked, you can climb underneath and have a friend use their body weight to bounce the vehicle on the spot. If you’re lucky, you might be able to pin-point the source of the squeak.

This could be a differential problem or even something like a collapsed wheel bearing. But it’s most likely to be a seized brake or parking brake that is causing this problem. Has the vehicle been sitting around for a long time without moving? That’s a common way for brakes to seize and lock the wheel, preventing it from turning.

You might be able to knock the park brake free with a bit of persuasion, or maybe crack the bleed nipple on the brake itself to let the pressure off the brake and free it. But if the brake is rusted on, then you’ll need to disassemble it to bring it back to a condition where the vehicle is safe to drive again. Even if you get it moving again, a thorough disassembly and inspection is warranted to make sure it’s 100 per cent safe to go back on the road.

The D-Max is pretty well regarded in the trade for its ability to go the distance, but modern, common-rail diesel technology has shown that a vehicle with fewer kilometres is usually a better bet than one with more. Although they do an amazing job in terms of power, torque, towing and fuel economy, today’s turbo-diesels are pretty highly strung in some ways and really need their maintenance. And the older they get, the more attention they seem to need in terms of new injectors, filters and pumps.

A D-Max with those kilometres might be ready for a pretty big (and expensive) service, too, so make sure your first trip in it isn’t going to be to a workshop. Ultimately, price, condition and service history should steer your decision as they should in any second-hand vehicle purchase. I’d take a vehicle with 150,000km with a full service history over a 60,000km one with no service records.

Any number of things could be exciting the passenger seat, the wheels and tyres, driveline, engine. It’s not likely to be the suspension/shocks, although they would be prime suspects when it comes to the hard ride. Take it to a suspension specialist and check out the options for springs, shocks and bushes.

It sounds like it is going into limp mode, which means the computer is seeing something wrong, perhaps with a sensor. Being intermittent it’s hard for the dealer to fix. Persist with it and keep taking it back.

Next time it stops turn the ignition off and then attempt to restart it. It’s likely that it will start and you should be able to drive on.

It’s a hard call, and comes down to what you want it to do. The Workmate is cheaper, has a larger engine, and a higher towing rating, but is not as economical as the Triton. On the whole the Toyota comes out on top.

You first need to decide the level of off-roading you will be doing because that will determine if you need a four-wheel drive or you only need an all-wheel drive SUV. From what you have told us I suspect that an SUV, such as a Kia Sorento, Toyota Kluger, or a Nissan X-Trail would be the best all-round vehicle for you. All of those would fit your budget, they will all go off-road to a reasonable degree, and they're all reliable. The Mitsubishi Triton is a hard-riding ute, which I don't think is what you want, but the Suzuki Grand Vitara is a good vehicle and would also fit your needs.