2005 Toyota RAV4 Reviews

When launched in October 1994, the Toyota RAV4 was a cute and cheeky 4WD. Over the years it expanded in size and from the latest model in February 2006 has become positively staid – sounds like the typical human life cycle doesn’t it!In the ‘teenage’ years of its life cycle, the funkiest of all RAV4s arrived in January 1998, but barely lasted two years on the market. Though called Cabriolet by Toyota, it is in fact an old-style soft-top. The roof is reasonably easy to pull down and erect, but we still recommend a bit of practice at home before you set out on a topless trip on a cloudy dayThe great majority of Toyota RAV4s have a two or four-door station wagon body. The former is on a shorter wheelbase than the latter, so misses out on both rear-seat space and luggage carrying capacity.The RAV4 isn't designed to conquer the great Aussie outback, Toyota has plenty of other 4WDs and SUVs capable of dong just that, but it is a lot more competent than you might expect. Good ground clearance, big wheels and handy approach, departure and ramp angles mean it can take on rocks, ruts and rough stuff with plenty of verve. The short-wheelbase is, naturally, better than the LWB if you want to get serious off-road.These little Toyota SUVs use what are virtually car tyres and don’t have a low-range transfer case. Better tyres can make it just perfect on the beach.The RAV4’s first engine was a modern 2.0-litre four-cylinder unit that gives better than average performance for its class. The engine was extensively modified at the beginning of 1998 to give it a broader spread of torque. The four-cylinder engine was increased in size to 2.4 litres in 2003.From October 2007 a V6 engine option with the capacity of 3.5 litres joined the fray. It goes without saying the V6 has plenty of grunt, but it can be on the thirsty side at times.You have a choice between a five-speed manual and a four-speed automatic transmission in most models. The V6 comes only with a five-speed auto. The four-speed automatic is a modern unit that works well and doesn’t take too much edge off the performance, but many computers now provide five or six forward ratios.Toyota has been number one in the Australian automotive market for a number of years. So it has dealers in almost all areas of Australia, even those which are ignored by other big players in our market. So getting spares and repairs isn't likely to be a hassle.Dealers in the most remote zones are more likely to carry spare parts for LandCruisers than for the RAV4s. Nonetheless, you aren’t likely to have to wait for more than a few days for parts to be shipped to the bush from one of the major cities.Insurance is generally in the low to moderate range and there doesn't seem to be a huge variance in premium prices between them.WHAT TO LOOK FORThe Toyota RAV4 is built to a high standard but it’s still wise to have a full inspection after doing your own check up. Most RAV4s never go off road, but look closely for panel and underbody damage, just in case.Scratches in the paint and and/or the door sills and lower body corners are tell-tale signs a RAV4 has come into contact with solid objects, perhaps only bushes and similar shrubbery. But it all costs money to have rectified.If you come across sand in the underbody, try it for a salty taste. RAV4s appear to be well rust proofed but salt water really rips into steel if it gets half a chance. Check the condition of the trim, especially in a soft-top as the latter may have been caught out in the rain or even driven in the surf - again check for that salty smell or taste.Listen and feel for loose components in the transmission system that have been abused in off-road driving. The engine should start first time every time, and idle smoothly even when completely cold. If there is smoke from the exhaust under hard acceleration the engine may be in a bad way.If a manual gearbox is reluctant to go down from third to second when the change is hurried, trouble could be brewing. Automatic transmissions which have had a hard life may be reluctant to change and could be slow at engaging a drive gear from Neutral or Park.CAR BUYING TIPSilly as it may sound, beware the 4WD that has been off-road. So few do any real work these days that it’s easy to find one that’s never been off sealed surfaces.

On a tight budget, you had four options: unsafe cars, unreliable cars, really boring cars or cars that combined all three characteristics.  In the past decade, though, it's become easier to find a tidy, safe, cheap used car, for several reasons.Firstly, used cars don't hold their value like they once did. New cars have become cheaper in real terms, and sales have boomed, so there's a lot more used cars on the market.Cars are also much safer than they used to be. Government legislation and independent crash test programmes like NCAP, (which publicises the results of its tests, much to the annoyance of the industry) have forced car makers to improve safety. A 2005 car, no matter what make it is, will be safer than a 1995 car. At the minimum, you want two front airbags and anti-lock (ABS) brakes.Unless it's French or Italian, in which case a weekly dummy spit is part of the "ownership experience," most cars from the last 10 years will be pretty reliable, as long as servicing has been done by the book.We are talking about ordinary, everyday cars here, that haven't been thrashed. If you're looking at some dude's slammed, chipped Subaru WRX and the price seems too good to be true, chances are it will self-destruct before you make it home. You pay your money and you take your chances.Immaculate, low kilometre cars owned by little old ladies do exist, and they are gold. So is a complete service record, especially if it's from the dealer who sold the car new.  Let's see if we can find a few to recommend. Bottom dollar in our search is $5000.There's not much joy at this money, but the last of the Mitsubishi Magnas, from 2004-2005, are great value and reasonably plentiful. Many will be ex-renters. That's not necessarily a bad thing, because serving will have been done to schedule. The 3.5-litre V6-four speed auto ES has four airbags and ABS.Another Mitsubishi, the Lancer, is the best small car we can find at this price. Toyota Corollas are fine too, though they're more expensive.  The Lancer's as sexy as a can of baked beans and completely bulletproof. Pay about $7000-$8000 or so for a 2005 model. Find one with optional ABS and six airbags.If you've got around $10,000 to spend, you have much more choice.  In 2004, Mazda made six airbags and ABS available across its entire range, as options or standard, so any Mazda2 or Mazda3 from 2004 on will be worth checking out. Mazda does blue chip quality, and if you find a good one, with a service book, buy it. You'll pick up a 2 for less than $10,000; a 3 will be $10,000-$12,000.If you need something bigger, this sort of money will also get you into a 2004-2005 Subaru Liberty, another top car from Japan's A league. All wheel drive, excellent handling and Subaru's class leading NCAP scores are pluses. The 2.0-litre four won't rip your arms off, but it will do the job. Wagons cost a little more.You might prefer a small SUV wagon instead, so look for a 2004-2005 Subaru Forester, or Toyota RAV4, at $12,000-$15,000.  If you need a big car for a big country, the Aussie six is hard to go past.You'll pay $10,000-$13,000 for the first of the VE Commodores from 2006. The 3.6-litre V6 sounds like 1000 leaf blowers on maximum thrust, however it's durable enough. Holden got serious about safety with VE, so you get stability control as standard.  It might take a while to find the right car, but in the end, it pays to be fussy. Second hand doesn't have to mean second best.WHERE TO BUY?DealerPros: On cars under 10 years old, most states require a warranty, typically 3 months or 5000 kilometres. You also get guaranteed title. Franchised dealers (ie those who also sell new cars) usually have the best selection of used cars; the trade-ins they don't want are unloaded to non franchised dealers or auctions.Cons: Can be more expensive than a similar car bought privately. Beware of non-franchised dealers selling flood damaged or rebirthed (ie cars written off by insurance companies but then repaired) from Queensland.PrivatePros: The best way to find a bargain.Cons: You have to do plenty of legwork, and finding the right car, in a place that's close to where you live, can be a time consuming process. There's no guarantee of title or provenance, and no comebacks if it drops its guts on the way home. Buyer beware.AuctionsPros: Ex-government or fleet cars, usually properly serviced, with low kilometres. Guaranteed title. Many dealers buy cars at auction, take them to their car yard, and jack the price up by thousands of dollars. Buy it yourself, and pocket the difference.Cons: You can't test drive the car before you bid. It's also easy for an amateur to pay too much, so go to a couple before you buy to get an idea of prices and how it all works.