Ask The Guide

Proton used to use engines it built under license from other manufacturers (notably Mitsubishi). In those days, there was a decent chance that a Proton rocker cover would have been interchangeable from another make or model that also used the same or similar Mitsubishi-designed engine.

Eventually, though, Proton progressed to the point where it was building and fitting engines of its own design, and the one in your Preve is that first of those. As such, you probably wouldn’t be able to switch it for another make and model’s cover, although you might find that other Proton models from the same era as your car (and which used the same engine) will, in fact, have rocker covers that can be mixed and matched. But be very careful, as even a different location for the EGR valve or breather tube might be the difference that renders the two covers non-interchangeable.

It depends on which particular version of the G10 you have. That’s because, around this time, LDV offered three different engines in vehicles badged as G10s. There were a pair of petrol engines – one turbocharged and one without a turbo – and a turbo-diesel. Both the turbocharged petrol and the turbo-diesel used a timing chain, while the non-turbo petrol (which had a capacity of 2.4 litres) used a rubber timing belt.

As such, the two engines with timing chains should not need maintenance in this area, while the 2.4 petrol’s timing belt will need to be replaced at whatever intervals LDV specified. Workshops dealing with these cars seem to recommend a belt-change interval of five years or 100,000km, whichever comes first.

We have seen this problem before in at least one other ZB Commodore, so you’re definitely not on your own. The problem is very possibly caused by a misalignment of the micro-switch that detects the car is, indeed, in Park, and allows it to be powered down. If the computer can’t see the correct signal from this micro-switch or sensor, it assumes the car is not ready to be locked and left.

Given that yours is not the only example of this, perhaps your auto electrician has seen this before and will know what the fix is. Even if they’re not familiar with the problem, a good auto sparky should be able to sort this. If not, a transmission specialist would be your next port of call.

The first thing to check here is what’s called the clock spring. This is an electrical connector inside the steering wheel that allows the wheel to be turned to full lock and back while still allowing for electrical contact between the airbag and the rest of the car.

If this spring fails, the connection between the airbag and the systems that would trigger it in a crash are lost. Which means that in a big enough collision, the airbag would not fire and protect the driver.

Clock spring replacement is relatively simple but it’s still a job best left to the pros, as any time you’re messing with an airbag, you’re playing with a fairly violent explosive component. Get it wrong and accidentally fire the airbag, and you could be seriously injured.

I’ll presume you mean the indicator stalk which uses a soft touch to indicate a lane change, and a firmer push to keep the indicators on until a turn has been made. There’s also some confusion when trying to cancel the indicators manually, and inadvertently indicating the wrong way. Plenty of people have complained about this, and some owners don’t seem to ever get used to it. That said, drivers of other models rarely find this setup to be a problem.

I checked with GWM who told me that there were no plans to make any changes to the indicator system on the current model Tank 300. The vehicle passes all safety standards for Australia and there’s no problem with the system that would require a safety recall or any other intervention. However, this feedback has reached GWM and – though nobody at GWM has said so – I wouldn’t be surprised if the next incarnation of the Tank 300 has a different indicator stalk system.

When ever a car starts to do crazy stuff like turn its own radio on, switch its headlights on and unlock itself at random, you need to look at the body computer. This controls all those functions and many more and, when it starts to fail, these phantom symptoms can start to surface.

In some cases, you may need to replace the body computer, but there’s a free hack you can try first. Disconnect the car’s battery and leave it overnight. Reconnect it next morning and see if the symptoms disappear. Sometimes, this trick will reset the body computer and all will be well. The effect may not be permanent, but it’s free and definitely worth a shot before spending money.

It’s not uncommon to find unused electrical connectors inside the cabin and engine bay of modern cars. You may find, for instance, that your car is a mid-spec model with electrical adjustment of the front seats (which explains the two connectors that are wired up). But further up the range, there’s a more expensive model with, say, heated front seats that yours doesn’t have. But the wiring loom is the same in both versions of the car, so the connector for the heated seats is present in your car, but has nothing to connect to. If that’s the case, then this is very unlikely to cause a starting problem.

However, a lot of modern cars also position their computers under the seat, inside the cabin. If somebody has removed the seats or fiddled about down there and either dislodged or not reconnected a plug for the computer, then this could definitely cause all sorts of running and starting issues. If you’re still in doubt, most workshops should be able to identify what the connector is and whether it needs to be reconnected or simply left alone.

It really doesn’t matter how fast you’re driving when a timing chain or timing belt breaks. If the engine is an interference design, then this failure has possibly turned the rest of the engine to junk. That’s because the valves and pistons have tried to occupy the same space at the same time, and widespread internal damage is the usually outcome.

From what I can gather, the V6 engine in your car is indeed an interference design, so the damage is possibly terminal. You could remove the cylinder head(s) to check, but if the engine has locked up, there’s a fair chance you’ll need to either rebuild the engine or replace it with a different one. You may also find that the cost of these repairs will be greater than the market value of the vehicle itself. At that point, you need to decide whether to repair it or start again with a new vehicle.

That’s getting up there for any car, even though modern engines are capable of much greater distances than their older relatives. But that sort of mileage does raise some questions.

Those start with how complete is the service history. If there are any gaps, this would be a car to avoid, as any vehicle with that sort of distance covered will only be as good as its servicing and maintenance allow. The other question is what sort of life the car has led. Three hundred thousand kilometres sounds like a lot, but if you break it down to kilometres per year, it works out at less than 18,000km per annum, which is well within the bounds of normality.

However, the bottom line is this with all high-mileage vehicles: You might get lucky and get another 150,000 trouble-free kilometres out of the thing, or it might go bang tomorrow. That’s the punt you take and that’s why high-milers are cheap to buy. Which is another way of saying that even with a full service record, a RAV4 with that sort of mileage would still need to be cheap.

There’s a variety of ways for this problem to occur, so let’s start with the basics. Is the battery in good condition? Even though it may show 12 volts on a tester, when you actually apply a load to it (via the starter motor) you may find it loses the plot. And modern, fuel-injected engines hate having low voltage when they’re trying to start or run.

The next thing to check would be whether you have power at the coil packs. If you don’t, you need to work your way upstream to find out where the power stops. The fuses and relays for the ignition are a likely culprit. And don’t forget to make sure the coil packs are earthed properly. Bad earths are an incredibly common way for modern engines to go haywire.