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This fault code usually has something to do with the car’s lane-keeping alert program. A lot of newer cars have this system which either warns the driver that they’re straying outside their lane, or in many cases will actually intervene with some steering input to correct the car’s path. Obviously, it’s important that this safety tech works as it should, and the warning you’re seeing is to alert you that the car thinks there’s something wrong with the lane-keeping system.

Depending on the make and model, these systems use radar, cameras and other sensors to detect the lane marking, the edge of the road and even potential obstacles. As such, any problem with any of these devices can throw the system into disarray. But it’s not always a hardware or software fault; sometimes something as simple as a bug-splattered sensor or camera can cause this warning light to flash up on the dashboard. Even minor scrapes and bumps can throw the system off balance, too.

If there really is a problem with the system or its computer control that is not damage related, then you need to take the car back to the dealership as these safety systems should be covered by the car’s warranty. Don’t delay the fix, either. A car without all its safety gear working properly is potentially unroadworthy.

The most common cause of this problem is a flat battery. Often, a battery will have just enough charge remaining to switch on the dashboard lights (which don’t need much power to operate) yet be too flat to actually crank the engine (which requires a huge amount of power).

You can have the battery charged and its overall condition checked, as well as the vehicle’s charging system. You may also find you have something as simple as a loose battery terminal that is not allowing the charge to flow a freely as it needs to.

This sounds like a home bodge designed to keep a car running even if it’s not how Ford intended things to operate. Often, when something like the temperature sensor that controls cooling fans fails, a dodgy fix is to short-circuit the switching mechanism to have the fans running all the time. So, the vehicle’s engine stays cool, but the fans are now running constantly.

Even though you’ve replaced the temperature sensor that controls these fans (which is what the previous owner probably should have done) the short-circuit bodge means the fans still keep running all the time. Fundamentally, you need to work out what was bodged and reverse that process. Only then can you start to fix the original fault. An auto electrician should be able to unravel things for you.

The probability is that you’ve disconnected something electrical to change the crank-angle sensor and failed to reconnect it afterwards. It sounds simple, but it’s a common problem. Either that or the car has been sitting for long enough for the battery to lose its charge.

So start with the basics. Check that the battery is charged up and that the terminals are connected properly and are clean and tight. There may also be a fusible link in the positive terminal that might have blown during the reconnecting process. Then, make sure the earth cable from the battery is, indeed, earthing on the engine or body of the car (preferably both).

If there’s still no joy, you need to check for power at the starter motor. If there’s no electricity getting to the starter or its solenoid, the engine will not crank. If that’s the problem, you need to start chasing the break in electrical continuity, starting with the fuses and relays that control this circuit.

Replacing random parts to fix a problem is a great way to tear up dollars and time. It’s also pretty frustrating when the problem doesn’t go away. The first thing to do is to have the car electronically scanned to see if the car’s own computer can point you towards the cause of the problem.

It may be as simple as the car needs a tune up and a new set of spark plugs, but you won’t know until it’s been properly diagnosed. This is not a complex car, so any good workshop should be able to sort it for you. The other problem, of course, is that the issue is intermittent, so it may take the workshop some time to be able to make the problem appear. Patience is the key here, not throwing a load of new parts at it.

These two readouts are closely linked in that one determines the other. Your average fuel consumption dictates the distance the car estimates it can travel based on what’s in the tank. But variation in these readings is perfectly normal. That’s because the range estimate is based on your most recent driving. So, if your fuel consumption has jumped from 7 to 8 litres per 100km, the computer will adjust the range down to compensate and prevent you from running out of petrol. That’s all very normal.

The bigger question is why your consumption has recently increased. Have you changed your driving style? Are you suddenly towing a trailer? Have you allowed another driver (with a heavier foot) to borrow the car? Are your tyre pressures correct? Have you added a roof rack? Do you now do more city and suburban driving than before? Is the car in need of a service and tune?

All these things can have a noticeable effect on fuel consumption, and any one of them could be the key to your fuel consumption increase and associated range reduction.

The trick to a diagnosis here might be to find out what rotational bits and pieces are involved. To do that, you need to work out whether the noise is wheel-speed related, driveshaft-related or engine and transmission-related. The driveshaft spins fastest, followed by the driveshafts and finally the wheels, axles and brakes. So that’s probably the key to it.

Even something as simple as a bent or loose brake shield can cause a rattle, squeak or grinding noise, and some owners have gone so far as to strap GoPro cameras under the car and take it for a drive to see what’s going on. A mechanical workshop will probably be a bit more scientific, but the basics of troubleshooting remain the same.

As far as the driveline locking for a moment, you could be looking at a related problem or a completely separate issue. It’s probably wise to make sure the transfer case isn’t suddenly shifting into neutral or low-range on its own for that split-second, as that could cause driveline chaos. But a sticking brake caliper or faulty ABS module could potentially also cause the same sensation.

Some cars cycle their ABS systems when you first start up and take off, and this can lead to a metallic noise for a second or two and a slight buzz through the car. It can be intermittent, too. Are you sure that’s not what you’re hearing?

The best place to start for some professional advice is a transmission specialist. They’ll probably inspect the transmission in your car and will be able to work out whether it can be fixed or if it needs to be replaced.

If you do need a replacement CVT, there are three main ways to go. You could buy a brand new replacement CVT which is likely to be the most expensive course of action. The second alternative is to have the transmission shop recondition the one you already have. This will also be quite expensive.

The third option is to find a good, tested second-hand CVT from a wrecked Koleos and have that fitted. This will be by far the cheapest way to go. But the gamble with option three is that the same problems might happen again, and you’d be back to square one.

I agree that a 2016 model-year car is too new to be thrown away, but failures of CVT transmissions are more common than they should be. It’s something car makers need to look at when they consider future designs and engineering.

If the problem occurred immediately after you replaced the carpet and seats, I’d say there’s a very good chance you’ve unclipped a wiring plug or connector to remove the interior, and failed to reconnect it afterwards. A lot of modern cars have airbags in the actual seat (the side airbag usually) and the wiring often runs under the seat.

The best move would be to remove the seats again and check for loose wiring or wiring or connectors that have been damaged of misplaced in the process of the interior’s removal. But before you touch anything under there, disconnect the car’s battery. That ensures you won’t have an accidental airbag deployment that could injure you while you’re working in that space.

This sounds awfully like badly worn transmission. The Dualis in automatic form used what’s called a CVT. Instead of gears inside the transmission, the CVT has pulleys and metal belts that vary their relationship and, therefore, create the various 'gear ratios' the car needs.

When these pulleys and belts wear, they can start to make the noise you’re reporting. And, just like your car, it will get noisier as time passes. Unfortunately, you’re probably looking at a transmission overhaul or rebuild. If you continue to drive it as it is, you’ll almost certainly do more damage, although it sounds like the real damage is already done.

Take the car to a transmission specialist who will be able to accurately diagnose the noise and take it from there.