Ask The Guide

There’s about a million possible causes of this, but most mechanics would probably make a check of the electric fuel pump one of their first moves. Modern electric pumps have a finite lifespan and when they die, it can be very sudden. You can try a quick test for yourself at home, too. When it’s nice and quiet, turn the ignition until the dashboard lights come on. At that point, you should be able to hear a faint hum or buzz. That’s the electric fuel pump switching on to supply fuel to the engine. If you can’t hear it humming away, chances are it’s either dead or a fuse or other electrical problem has stopped it in its tracks.

There’s also the chance that the failure to start is related to the car’s ignition system which, again, could have any number of causes. Old spark plugs, blown coil-packs, a dud sensor or even a broken wire could be the problem.

Plenty of used cars change hands without service books in the glovebox. But this is usually a problem in older cars where the vehicle is well and truly out of warranty. In a newer cars such as yours, the lack of any service history in the car would be a major red flag.

There’s no law requiring a car dealer to provide a service history, just as there’s no law compelling owners to have their cars serviced correctly, even though failing to do so will often void the car’s warranty. And how can a dealer be responsible for a car’s service books if the previous owner lost them? Also, if the car hasn’t been serviced within the Toyota dealership network, how can a dealership determine what that service history has been?

But here’s what’s probably happened: Many dealerships (especially high-volume ones) remove the service handbook, owner’s manual and the second key from the car before it goes on the lot. That’s to prevent those things going 'missing' over the weeks the car is on sale and being test driven by who-knows-who. In my experience, there will be one person at that car-yard who will know where the books and keys and stored and until you find that person, their location will remain a mystery. But, if the car was bought on the condition that the service books would be sent to you, then that forms part of the contract of sale and the car-yard must produce them. In the meantime, since you don’t know when the last service was carried out, I’d be pushing for a free service to ensure the car doesn’t wind up with a skipped service based on time and kilometres.

A weird, random grinding noise at low speeds when taking off can sometimes be a result of the anti-lock brakes. It can be a surprise initially, but it doesn’t usually last more than a second or so and is caused by the braking system more or less calibrating itself for the journey ahead. It can also occur in reverse and is usually nothing to worry about.

But you should also probably look further than the braking system. Any grinding or rattling noise can be something as simple as a heat-shield vibrating, or as serious as a major flaw in the transmission or suspension. Either way, it needs to be diagnosed and fixed.

Don’t take no as an answer from the dealership, and don’t be afraid to tackle GWM’s Australian customer service division if you’re not getting anywhere. If there is a problem, then it’s very possibly a warranty issue and is GWM’s problem to fix.

Yes it is. All engines use a small amount of oil, but recently, car makers have started using low-tension piston rings to reduce internal friction and save fuel. In turn, that means some modern engines consume a bit more oil than some older engine designs. That has led some car owners, more used to seeing very small levels of oil consumption, to become concerned when their new car consumes more oil than their old one. But this is pretty normal and the fuel saving is deemed worth the trade off.

Your level of oil consumption is absolutely normal and is no cause for concern. As with any car, however, it pays to keep an eye on the dipstick between services, as modern, low-friction engines and ever-longer service intervals mean some have ben caught out with an empty sump before the next service is due. Checking the oil every month is a good idea; checking it every week is an even better one. What you’re looking for is a change to the usual oil consumption rate, as well as making sure the oil is between the low and full marks on the dipstick.

Short answer: No. The park-brake warning light is there to help prevent you driving off with the park brake engaged. But really, all the lights on the dashboard should go off when you turn off the ignition and lock the car. The possible exception is a flashing light to warn would-be car thieves that the car is alarmed.

Dashboard lights (and other lights) that randomly light up when the car is switched off can be a sign of a slowly dying body computer, but you should never ignore a warning light for the braking system. You could find the light is being triggered by an actual fault in the park brake mechanism, including maladjusted cables, worn brake pads or some other mechanical problem. But we’d also check the owner’s manual to make sure that the same warning light is not designed to be triggered by some other braking problem like, for instance, low brake fluid level.

This is the problem with just replacing parts without knowing the actual cause of the problem. If the third alternator and third battery haven’t solved the charging problem, obviously you need to look elsewhere. If a brand new alternator and a brand new battery aren’t talking to each other, you clearly have a break in communication somewhere in the middle.

Start with the battery terminals and cables. Are they tightly connected to the battery and not frayed or broken beneath the plastic insulation? Sometimes there’s a fusible link (a fuse, basically) built into the battery terminal that will break to protect the electrical system if there’s a short circuit somewhere. That’s worth a check too. The fusible link is usually contained within the battery terminal itself.

The next step is the check all the fuses and relays that connect the battery and alternator with the rest of the car. These can accessed via the fuse-box which is usually located under the glovebox or behind the kick-panel in the footwell, but there’s often also a second fuse-box under the bonnet. Sometimes the cause of non-charging can even be as simple as the little red warning light on the dashboard that has blown its globe, although that’s not often the case with more modern cars like yours.

If you still can’t figure it out, an auto electrician is your next stop, rather than simply throwing more new parts at the car which may or may not fix it.

I’d start by talking to a transmission specialist. There’s a fair chance they will have seen these exact symptoms before in this make and model and will know what’s wrong without wasting any time or money on guesswork. It’s probably also worth going back to basics and checking the transmission fluid level, as low fluid can cause all sorts of drive problems. If, on the other hand, the gearbox is worn out internally, you’ll either need to rebuild or replace it, but don’t rule out something less expensive like an internal selector fault or even a torque converter problem.

Forget about the male/female thing and go for something that has a good reputation for reliability and, above all else, good safety equipment as standard. Younger drivers are seriously over-represented in crash statistics, and a car with the right safety equipment is the only way to go.

Don’t forget, there are two types of safety; active and passive. The active safety gear refers to things like stability control, autonomous emergency braking and blind-spot monitoring. Passive safety, meanwhile, deals with the equipment needed when the crash has become inevitable, so things like airbags.

Because safety gear has become more and more important in recent years, the rule of thumb is that a later model car is going to be better than an earlier one which might have missed out on some of the equipment. As a bare minimum, however, don’t even consider a car without side airbags and stability control. The good news is that these pieces of safety gear have been around for a long time now, so they can now be found in even cheaper second-hand cars.

It certainly sounds like you could have a fuel problem and a fuel filter can definitely get clogged over time, becoming worse and worse. But you might also have a fuel pump problem or even a fault in the injection system that is causing the issue. Don’t rule out a random ignition or electrical problem, either, as these can cause the same symptoms.

So, go back to basics. Check the fuel volume and pressure and have the car electronically scanned to see if the computer throws up any hints on what’s wrong. Even if the fuel pump is delivering lots of fuel when you test it, don’t rule out an intermittent pump problem.

Sometimes, as fuel pumps wear, they can cut out when they get hot or sometimes when they simply feel like it.

If neither the key nor the central locking will lock the hard-tonneau, it’s likely the latch is not engaging properly. Which in turn means you most likely have an alignment problem between the tonneau and the rest of the tray.

I’m not sure if you have the factory tonneau (probably) or an aftermarket one, but these are big, fibreglass panels that can sometimes shift a little on their hinges and fixing points, leading to the misalignment that won’t allow the latches to line up and engage.

The factory HSV tonneau for this car has a quick-release hinging system allowing it to be removed easily for carrying higher loads. Perhaps removing and refitting the tonneau via this feature will return everything to its correct alignment.