Ask The Guide

The SVS light is otherwise known as the Service Vehicle Soon light. It indicates that there’s something wrong with the car’s engine management (in the case of your Statesman). In this make and model, it’s often triggered by a faulty oil-pressure sensor which is relatively cheap and easy to replace.

But that shouldn’t cause the misfire. Which means you need to look further and that would start by giving the car an electronic scan. It’s worth knowing that these engines used spark plugs that required replacement at 80,000km intervals. These won’t cause the computer to log a fault code, but they do fail remarkably reliably at this mileage, and a misfire is the first symptom.

The clicking noise is probably the central locking actuators that physically lock and unlock the doors. If they’re constantly cycling, it won’t be long before they fail. Which sounds like why the car locked you in.

The reason they’re cycling constantly is probably something to do with either the sensors that tell the car a door is ajar, or the body computer that controls a huge array of functions in a modern car. An auto electrician is probably your best bet to have this sorted.

Let’s start with the basics here. Is your vehicle a petrol- or diesel-engined Rodeo? If it’s the former, you may have disturbed the wiring when changing the filter. So go back and check all the connections. If you can’t hear the pump whirring when you turn on the ignition, then you either have a fuse or wiring problem or the pump itself has died.

It’s pretty common for this to happen and most electric fuel pumps have a lifespan of something like 100,000km. But this can be a lot shorter if the car has ever been filled with contaminated fuel.

If your Rodeo is a diesel, there’s a chance it will need to be primed before it will restart after a filter change. That is, it needs to have any air in the fuel system removed before it will run. Locate the fuel filter in the engine bay, and you should see a small plunger at the top. With everything refitted, you can manually push on this plunger to prime the pump and remove any air. All things being equal, the engine should then start and run.

Speaking of back to basics, make sure you haven’t installed the new fuel filter the wrong way around. These only flow in one direction and installing it backwards will not allow the fuel to flow from the tank to the engine.

The law in this country allows for servicing to be undertaken by somebody other than a SsangYong dealership provided the mechanic and workshop are accredited as a recognised service centre. In fact, this concept has been a point of debate in the US recently when Telsa attempted to restrict who could and couldn’t work on its vehicles.

So, provided the servicing carried out on your car has been at the appropriate intervals and the workshop was a licensed one, there should be no argument from KGM on this. However, if the car was serviced by a backyarder or even yourself, then all bets will be off and you’ll probably be on your own.

If you disagree with the dealership’s decision, you can always talk to KGM’s Australian Customer Service division, and then, if that fails, the ACCC is your next stop.

Changing the starter motor on this model is a bit tricky as the transverse engine locates the starter on the side of the engine, down low and sandwiched between the engine and firewall. You may need to remove some other brackets, wiring and plumbing to gain proper access, but the starter can be removed with the manifolds in place. It just takes some fiddling and patience.

Replacement is the opposite of removal (as they say in the best workshop manuals) but it’s critical to make sure the wiring goes back in the right order or you’ll fry the new starter. Taking a photo of the starter’s location and wiring before you start to pull it all apart is often a wise move as you can use the image for reference later on.

This is typically not a difficult job, but due to the cramped engine bay of this make and model, maybe it’s not a great first project for the home mechanic.

Any time you have a grinding noise from the driveline of a car, it’s time to have it checked out. That’s because continuing to drive it in that condition might cause more damage than was already there. Grinding sounds from the area of the transmission can indicate worn bearings in the gearbox which, if caught early enough can sometimes be replaced without resorting to a complete transmission replacement. Even so, it will be a big job as the gearbox will need to be removed and pulled apart.

You may also find while you’re inside the transmission that there’s other wear that needs to be addressed, at which point the decision becomes whether to repair or replace. You can buy a reconditioned transmission from a specialist shop, or a second-hand one from what was once called a wrecking yard. If you do the latter, make sure the used gearbox has been tested and comes with some sort of warranty. The cost of a replacement could be anywhere from $1000 to $10,000 depending on what you buy and where you buy it from.

The driver’s window of the average car does a lot more work than any of the other power windows on board. What can happen over time is that the tracks the window glass runs in become clogged with dust and debris or simply go dry, meaning there’s excess friction when the glass is trying to change position. Thanks to gravity, this is usually most often seen when trying to raise the glass.

You can try a dry lubricant spray which typically contains graphite to grease the tracks slightly, but don’t overdo it. And try to avoid liquid lubricants as these will smear the glass. If that doesn’t work, you may have to take the door and glass apart to find the problem. It could also be that the electric motor that does the work of moving the glass is worn and not providing the necessary power.

In the meantime, you can help the motor by grabbing the top of the glass and using a little elbow grease to help it make the journey. Just make sure you don’t get your fingers in the way as the window shuts.

Squeaks from the engine bay are often caused by worn drive belts, their pulleys and tensioners. You might even have a worn power steering pump, water pump or air-conditioning compressor that is giving off the odd squeak or groan. It’s worth tracking down, though, as should any of these components seize or snap, you could be left stranded.

Check around the water pump for any sign of moisture. At the bottom of the pump housing near the front of the engine, there should be what’s called a 'weep hole’. Any dampness here suggests a pump that’s already leaking and could let go any time, perhaps without further warning.

Even an air leak in any of the car’s vacuum systems (including the one that powers the brakes) can sound like a squeak or squeal, so check all the rubber lines for splits or holes and also that they’re tightly secured to their respective fittings.

Don’t forget to look for any evidence of chafing or rubbing together of various parts. This can also create odd noises.

There are a couple of issues here. The first is that your mechanic may not have the correct scanning tool to be able to interrogate the car’s on-board computer to check for fault codes. And without the correct one, you won’t get far down that track. However, it’s worth following that route as it’s the best, most efficient way to find out what’s really going on inside the car.

Ironically, the same scanning tool required will probably also be able to turn the transmission warning light off. But turning the light off is not the solution; you need to know what triggered the warning in the first place and attend to that. Otherwise the light will keep cropping up, regardless of how often you turn it off.

Continuing to drive with a warning light illuminated risks doing more damage to the vehicle in the long run. Something is not right in your car’s driveline and the car knows it. But you’ll need the right mechanic with the right tools to be able to know what the fault is and how to fix it.

Your car has an engine Suzuki calls K12C which is a member of the Dual Jet family. That means it does, indeed, have a pair of fuel injectors for each cylinder. It’s conceivable that one set of the injectors is not seating properly or not getting the correct signal to shut off from the computer and that is filling the cylinders with fuel. This may happen until the pressure in the fuel rail dies off, or it could continue dripping all night.

If this is what’s happening, then you shouldn’t attempt to start the car as, should there be enough fuel inside the cylinders, the engine could hydraulically lock, potentially bending con-rods and destroying the entire engine.

How have you diagnosed this as the problem? Have you removed the injectors and had them checked or tested? This sounds like a pretty odd sort of problem for a car as new as this.

The other possibility is that the injectors are getting a computer signal they shouldn’t and leaking as a result. This is a tempting theory as it might also explain why the fan continues to run with the engine switched off. However, it pays to remember that many cars will continue to run their cooling fan after the ignition has been turned off as a way of reducing the temperature of the engine, even though it’s stopped. This should have no effect on the injectors, though.