Ford Kuga Problems

I’d agree that the problem is likely to be something to do with the on-board computer(s) that control the powertrain and other functions. If you’re certain that the engine is not running hot when it claims to be, the cause could be as simple as the sensor is faulty, but it could also indicate a computer problem. The same goes for the power-steering, although an electrical circuit that constantly blows its fuse suggests a short-circuit somewhere in the wiring or connectors.

The code P1299 indicates that the car thinks the cylinder head temperature is too high, while P0118 suggests a problem with the sensor that monitors changes in the engine’s coolant temperature. Either way, this is a brand-new car, so it will be covered by the factory warranty. Make it Ford’s problem, not yours.

This crops us frequently as a dispute between car owners and dealerships and it's all because of one thing: Extended warranties are generally not worth the paper they're printed on. They're designed to relieve car buyers of more money, thinking they'll be covered if the worst happens. Usually, the warranty is carefully written to avoid paying out on the things most likely to go wrong. Never has 'read the fine print' been so important.

Consider that the warranty your purchased only covers the first $3500 of an engine replacement. Where on earth can an engine be replaced for that sort of money? It's a clear case of the fine print giving the warranty provider a convenient escape clause. Don't forget, this extended warranty is not a Ford factory warranty, it's a third party deal that car-dealers love because they get a kick-back from the warranty company every time a car buyer signs on that dotted line. Dealers also love these warranties because it forces owners into over-servicing their cars. Does it not seem strange that the car designed and engineered by Ford to have a 12-monthly service interval suddenly needs a six-monthly service as part of the warranty conditions?

As far as the replacement engine goes, be very careful about what you're being offered. If the engine is, indeed, a reconditioned engine, it doesn't really matter how many kilometres it has already done because reconditioned means it has been fully rebuilt with new parts. If, however, it's a second-hand engine plucked from a wrecked Kuga, then I would argue that an engine with the same mileage as the one in your car should be fitted. But I'll guarantee you there's some fine print in that warranty that makes me wrong about that, too.

The newer the car, the more economical it’s likely to be in the real world. If you’re chasing outright fuel economy (and that’s a powerful argument with current fuel prices) then a conventional hatch is likely to be a little more frugal than an SUV of the same size thanks to the latter’s higher ride height (for reduced aerodynamic efficiency) and chunkier tyres.

A CVT transmission arguably offers a more efficient solution, but not everybody likes the way a CVT feels to drive. The other choice to make is whether to go petrol or diesel or even hybrid.

Since you’re driving is largely suburban, I reckon that rules out a diesel as you’re likely to have ongoing issues with the vehicle’s emissions control system which won’t appreciate that sort of use. Diesels are better for country running, and that’s just the way it is. A diesel car is also likely to cost a bit more to service over the years.

That leaves petrol and it’s a fact that the newer petrol engines are a lot closer to diesels in terms of outright fuel economy. But if you really want to save fuel costs in a suburban car, then a petrol-electric hybrid is the solution. These will cost more to buy, but with 40km a day, you’ll probably get that money back in a reasonable timeframe.

Look at the South Korean makes (Hyundai and Kia) as both brands have a large range of SUVs and still – unlike some brands – still bother with conventional hatchbacks. Check out Toyota, too, which has a good history in hybrid small cars.

This model has a terrible record in terms of engine overheating. Even the petrol engine version has been recalled by Ford Australia after overheating and engine-bay fires were reported both here and in other markets.

The diesel doesn’t seem as likely to catch fire, but there’s definitely a trend for it to present with exactly the same problems and outcomes as your vehicle. Those symptoms include a lack of warning that anything is amiss, followed by a total engine melt-down with destructive consequences. As of right now, Ford hasn’t recalled the diesel-engined Kuga for this problem, but it’s definitely a thing around the world.

In your case, it’s critical to know whether the problem was pointed out to a Ford dealership within the three-year warranty period. If that’s the case, then you have what’s known as a pre-existing problem which means, if the dealer was made aware of the fault within the factory warranty period, then it’s a warranty case. No questions.

Back when your car was brand-new, it carried a three-year warranty, so, you need to work backwards from the date you first notified the dealer of a problem (when the vehicle was topped up with coolant but not diagnosed further) to see if that falls within the first three years of that car’s registered life. Even if it works out a little beyond the warranty period, you’d have a strong case for a pro-rata contribution from Ford for the cost of repairs, since Australian Consumer law can, in some case cases, over-ride factory warranty restrictions. Your case will be even stronger if you have proof of a Ford dealership service history.

Even then, there could be some wrangling on the part of the dealer, particularly in terms of what actually caused the engine failure. But I’d be talking to Ford Australia’s customer service division to try to work out a solution.

Australian-delivered Fords didn’t get a five-year warranty until May 2018, so I’m assuming the warranty you’re talking about is an aftermarket one sold to you by the dealer when you bought the car a year ago. If so, then there’s very little chance that it will cover a failed clutch (or anything else much, for that matter) as these warranties are notoriously worthless. Disputing the ruling could well be a lost cause as the fine-print in the warranty will doubtless be written to favour the insurer.

However, I fail to see how a failed clutch could cause a manual gearbox to fail, other than if the clutch was slowly dying and you were forced, over a period of time, to be brutal with the gear-shifter to select gears that didn’t want to cooperate. There is the chance that a clutch-pack breaking to pieces inside a dual-clutch transmission could, indeed, cause such a catastrophic failure, but as you haven’t told me what type of gearbox is fitted to your car, it’s a bit hard to say. That said, the Kuga got the wet-clutch version of Ford’s dual-clutch and not the vastly more troublesome dry-clutch Powershift unit. For that reason, the Kuga was not part of the recall that Ford issued for Ecosports, Fiestas and Focusses for transmission failures.

Take it to your Ford dealer and have them diagnose it and fix it for you.

It sounds like a problem with the dual-clutch transmissions electronic control, so take the car to a Ford dealer and have it assessed. Turning the engine off and then restarting it again will often reboot the computer and fix the problem in the short term, but there is an underlying issue that needs to be fixed.

It’s a dual-clutch auto similar to the ones that gave so much trouble in other models. As you say an auto transmission should last more than 80,000 km, it’s worth pursuing a claim for a replacement transmission.

You’re correct that a diff should last longer than six years, but how long it should last is open to question. To its credit Ford has offered to pay a portion of the repair cost. They won’t pay the whole cost of the repair as you have had six years of use out of the diff, and it’s now worn as a result of that use. There is no hard and fast rule that applies to your situation. The offer from Ford is based on the amount of wear and the projected life of the diff. You’re best to negotiate with Ford and hold out for the best deal you can get.

Are you trading simply because the nearest Ford dealership is two hours away? If that is the case, I would suggest you look at other service options locally, and think about having it serviced closer to home. It is five years old after all, so sticking with the dealer is not as important as it would be if the car were newer. If you are determined to trade I would suggest, in order, the Toyota, Nissan, Kia and Holden. All build cars of a similar quality and reliability to the Ford.