Ford Ranger Problems

There was a recall for a batch of manual-transmission Rangers built between 2015 and 2016 which had a poorly installed clip on the gearshift cable on the production line. Your car is from an earlier batch, but it’s not inconceivable that the problem is the same one.

The cable clip in question could allow the cable that operates the gear changes to make contact with the car’s driveshaft. At that point, gear-changing could become difficult or even impossible, which sounds pretty much like your symptoms. Check with a Ford dealer to see if your vehicle was covered by this recall.

Some Ford Ranger owners have reported that the hoses that carry coolant to the engine’s EGR valve have failed, allowing coolant to escape. This is one of the more common ways for this engine to lose coolant.

The problem with no warning showing up on the dashboard has more to do with physics. The warning light is triggered by the temperature of the coolant it’s submerged in. If the engine loses enough coolant, the sensor is suddenly not contacting the hot water and it ceases to give a reading or, therefore, trigger a warning. This is not a Ford Ranger thing, but a common problem faced by car owners over many decades.

It’s very unlikely a workshop would replace a component it fitted two years and 25,000km ago for free. Spare parts and repairs come with warranties, but generally not over that period of time or mileage. In any case, it sounds more like the clutch or flywheel has failed, rather than the master or slave clutch cylinders.

This model Ranger had a dual-mass flywheel designed to make for smoother operation, but the design cold also lead to premature clutch wear. When that happened, difficulty in selecting gears was one of the symptoms. Some owners when faced with this problem, converted their vehicles to a conventional single-mass flywheel to get around the problem in the future.

There’s a fair bit going on in a Ranger’s all-wheel-drive driveline, so you can expect a bit more noise than that generated by a conventional car. It’s not uncommon, either, for one example of a car to be a bit noisier than another of the same make and model and this is all down to what’s called production tolerances where there might be slight differences in two otherwise identical components.

In the case of driveline noises, it’s often said that a noise is more of a concern when it’s heard all the time, not just at a particular speed or frequency. If the noise goes away below 80km/h and is gone by 90km/h, then it could easily be one of these transient noises that doesn’t signify much to worry about. Concern should set it, however, if these noises, their volume and/or their duration start to change or become more frequent. At that point, you can be pretty sure things are changing inside the driveline and that’s usually an early sign of components starting to wear. Keep and ear on things and if the noises change, have them checked out. If you’re still concerned, have a mechanic who knows these vehicles well take a ride in it at the problem speed and have them compare it with other Rangers.

This could be caused by something inside the engine bay rattling or vibrating, but could also be linked to the exhaust system or its heat-shielding doing the same thing. When you hit the accelerator up a hill, the engine and driveline (and exhaust) are suddenly put under a lot of stress which can be passed along any mechanical link or fixture, making things flex or vibrate that don’t normally do so when they aren’t subjected to the same stresses and loads.

When the engine is cold, have a feel around the engine bay to find anything loose or poorly mounted that could contribute to such vibrations. It could be as simple as a poorly located clamp of a loose piece of trunking or internal panelling vibrating against another part. Often these noises will be conveyed into the cabin via the fresh air vents, making them sound even louder.

Just be sure not to confuse a rattle with the normal cacophony of noises a modern turbo-diesel produces as part of operating under load.

I can see why the internet cohort might be confused by this question (and why your mate at the pub may or may not know what he’s talking about) because it’s a bit of a weird one. For reasons of friction reduction (efficiency) and reliability, the camshafts in the Ford Bi-turbo are driven by a rubber toothed belt. But – and here’s the strange bit – the belt is partially submerged in the oil in the engine’s sump, so it’s a 'wet' timing belt. While the vast majority of other rubber, toothed timing belts run in a 'dry' environment.

Ford reckons this gives the engine the low noise of a conventional rubber timing belt, combined with the low friction running of a conventional `wet’ timing chain. But the high-strength cords and the oil-resistant rubber the belt is made from, says Ford, also mean that it should last a lot longer than a conventional timing belt. While conventional belts should be changed between 80,000 and 120,000km (roughly speaking) the Ford belt is said to be good for 230,000km.

For the record, the Bi-turbo’s oil pump is driven by a second belt of the same construction.

Noisy tappets (also known as hydraulic lifters) are relatively common on engines that have done their fair share of work. By using oil pressure generated from the engine’s oil pump, the hydraulic lifter can adjust to maintain the perfect gap between itself and the engine’s intake and exhaust valves. This improves efficiency and reduces engine wear, so it’s an important job.

Over time, the lifters may become a bit lazy (or weak) and may not be able to maintain that correct gap. At which point the extra clearance causes the tapping sound we associate with worn lifters. Replacement is the solution, and best practice says replace them all at once on the basis that if one lifter is already weak, the rest won’t be too clever either.

However, there’s one thing you can try before that, and that is to give the engine an oil change with a high-detergent (as most diesel engine oils are) content oil and a clean filter. Sometimes, fresh oil will clear out a small piece of grit or rubbish that is blocking the oil flow to a lifter and restore it to full health.

No, the new Ranger is code-named PY, while the vehicle in question is a PX. Admittedly, it’s a very late-build PX (a Series 3, if you like) which got a revised look and extra tech, but it’s not a 'Next Gen'. The real giveaway is that it has the five-cylinder 3.2-litre engine fitted. This engine was dropped for the newer models, Ford electing to stick with the 2.0-litre bi-turbo and 3.0 V6 diesel engines and the twin-turbo 3.0-litre petrol unit for the Raptor.

The last decade of dual-cab four-wheel-drive utes have emerged as the tow-vehicles of choice, and you see them everywhere filling roles exactly like the one you have planned. Popular models include the Ford Ranger you’ve nominated, Toyota HiLux, Mazda BT-50, VW Amarok, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara and Isuzu D-Max. But there are also cheaper alternatives including makes like the South-Korean made Ssangyong and various Chinese brands like LDV and Great Wall.

Just make sure you know exactly how much you need to tow before making a decision as some of the cheaper models don’t have the same outright towing capacity and even if they do, some of them don’t have the engine performance to make towing as easy as it should be. For parts availability, the Toyota would be king in really remote areas, but any of the major brands are pretty well covered in Australia.

Meantime, don’t rule out ute-based wagons such as the Ford Everest, Isuzu MU-X, Mitsubishi Pajero Sport and Toyota Fortuna. These offer better ride comfort when unladen thanks to more sophisticated rear suspensions and most have as much or almost as much towing capacity as their ute brethren.