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Toyota Corolla 1992

Toyota Corolla 1992

FROM
$1,380

The 1992 Toyota Corolla range of configurations is currently priced from $1,380.

Our most recent review of the 1992 Toyota Corolla resulted in a score of 4 out of 10 for that particular example.

You can read the full review here.

This is what Graham Smith liked most about this particular version of the Toyota Corolla: Cheap, Reliable, Available in a range of bodystyles

The 1992 Toyota Corolla carries a braked towing capacity of up to 850 Kg, but check to ensure this applies to the configuration you're considering.

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7.8L/100km (combined)
Hatchback
5 Speed Manual
Unleaded Petrol
Overview
Likes
Cheap
Reliable
Available in a range of bodystyles
Dislikes
Not at all safe by today's standards
Low on features, even options
Timing belt and transmission fluids need to be changed

Toyota Corolla 1992 FAQs

Why don't I see more 2008 Toyota Corolla Seca sedans?

While the sedan sold alongside the hatchback version of the Corolla in Australia, the hatchback easily outsold the sedan. And that’s pretty much the reason you still see a lot of hatchbacks getting around, but sedans are thin on the ground. They just didn’t sell in the same numbers back in the day. Fundamentally, buyers were much more likely to go for the extra practicality of the hatchback layout.

Of course, that’s in Australia. In some other markets (China, for example) the sedan version of a particular make and model is often more popular than the hatchback variant. It’s a cultural thing, in essence.

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Can I use RON 95 or ethanol blend fuel in a 2022 Toyota Camry hybrid engine?

Even though your car has a hybrid driveline, the bit that runs on petrol uses the same technology as any other Toyota petrol engine. So E10 is fine according to Toyota, although it also says 10 per cent (hence E10) is the highest percentage of ethanol you should consider using. Likewise, 95 RON petrol presents no problems.

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My 2013 Toyota Corolla won't go over 40km/h

If the car won’t accelerate beyond 40km/h, it could be because it has gone into limp-home mode in order to protect itself from further damage. If so, that’s possibly because there’s a major problem somewhere in the driveline. But the chainsaw noise is pretty worrying, too, and suggests that something is rubbing on something else that shouldn’t be.

The best advice is to not drive the car any farther until it’s been checked by a mechanic. Continuing to drive it risks doing more damage to whatever is already wrong with it.

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