The newer the car, the more economical it’s likely to be in the real world. If you’re chasing outright fuel economy (and that’s a powerful argument with current fuel prices) then a conventional hatch is likely to be a little more frugal than an SUV of the same size thanks to the latter’s higher ride height (for reduced aerodynamic efficiency) and chunkier tyres.

A CVT transmission arguably offers a more efficient solution, but not everybody likes the way a CVT feels to drive. The other choice to make is whether to go petrol or diesel or even hybrid.

Since you’re driving is largely suburban, I reckon that rules out a diesel as you’re likely to have ongoing issues with the vehicle’s emissions control system which won’t appreciate that sort of use. Diesels are better for country running, and that’s just the way it is. A diesel car is also likely to cost a bit more to service over the years.

That leaves petrol and it’s a fact that the newer petrol engines are a lot closer to diesels in terms of outright fuel economy. But if you really want to save fuel costs in a suburban car, then a petrol-electric hybrid is the solution. These will cost more to buy, but with 40km a day, you’ll probably get that money back in a reasonable timeframe.

Look at the South Korean makes (Hyundai and Kia) as both brands have a large range of SUVs and still – unlike some brands – still bother with conventional hatchbacks. Check out Toyota, too, which has a good history in hybrid small cars.

This model has a terrible record in terms of engine overheating. Even the petrol engine version has been recalled by Ford Australia after overheating and engine-bay fires were reported both here and in other markets.

The diesel doesn’t seem as likely to catch fire, but there’s definitely a trend for it to present with exactly the same problems and outcomes as your vehicle. Those symptoms include a lack of warning that anything is amiss, followed by a total engine melt-down with destructive consequences. As of right now, Ford hasn’t recalled the diesel-engined Kuga for this problem, but it’s definitely a thing around the world.

In your case, it’s critical to know whether the problem was pointed out to a Ford dealership within the three-year warranty period. If that’s the case, then you have what’s known as a pre-existing problem which means, if the dealer was made aware of the fault within the factory warranty period, then it’s a warranty case. No questions.

Back when your car was brand-new, it carried a three-year warranty, so, you need to work backwards from the date you first notified the dealer of a problem (when the vehicle was topped up with coolant but not diagnosed further) to see if that falls within the first three years of that car’s registered life. Even if it works out a little beyond the warranty period, you’d have a strong case for a pro-rata contribution from Ford for the cost of repairs, since Australian Consumer law can, in some case cases, over-ride factory warranty restrictions. Your case will be even stronger if you have proof of a Ford dealership service history.

Even then, there could be some wrangling on the part of the dealer, particularly in terms of what actually caused the engine failure. But I’d be talking to Ford Australia’s customer service division to try to work out a solution.

The Trax is good value for money and stacks up well against all comers in the class. The 1.4 turbo is the best engine, and it has a conventional auto instead of a CVT that most of its rivals have. Others to look at are the Suzuki S-Cross, Ford Kuga, Nissan Qashqai, Mazda CX-5 and Subaru XV.