Nissan Problems

Surprisingly, yes it is a fairly common observation. The idea is that having the gauge tell you that the tank is nearly empty even though it has a few litres still sloshing around in it, is a great way to convince you to find a service station before you run out of fuel. In the old days, many cars had a reserve tank which had to be switched on when the main tank ran out of fuel. This reserve tank was your insurance against being stranded. The modern fuel gauge acts in the same way by ensuring you have a supply remaining even when the gauge is telling you you’re just about empty.

Normally, a car has around 50 to 80km of fuel left when the gauge reads zero (although don’t be tempted to find out the hard way). So the 20 litres remaining in your tank when the gauge is on empty is on the high side, but far from abnormal.

I take it the smoke is coming out the tailpipe when you crank the engine, even though the engine is not starting or, at least, not running to the point where the car can be driven. It sounds like you might have 'cooked' the engine as old school mechanics would put it. When the radiator started leaking, allowing the coolant to escape, the engine overheated and 'cooked'. Which means the severe heat inside the engine damaged something sufficiently that the engine now won’t run.

You could be dealing with a blown head gasket or a warped cylinder head, or even damage to the pistons. The smoke you’re seeing when you crank the engine could be oil smoke that’s a result of fired piston rings due to the overheating episode. The first thing to do is let a mechanic run a few tests on the engine to determine whether it’s retrievable or junk. From there, you can make an informed decision on whether to fix the car or cut your losses and simply walk away. If the engine is damaged beyond help, a second-hand engine from a wrecked Tiida might be an option if you decide you want to keep the car.

Some markets have indeed experienced problems with the Nissan CVT transmission as fitted to many of the brand’s vehicles. It doesn’t seem as widespread in Australia, but some faults have been identified.

That main problems seem to be overheated CVTs which can cause juddering when driving and premature wear inside the transmission. According to some in the trade, the fault is caused by a problem with the way the transmission fluid is cooled, and when it gets too hot it can cause warping of the metal parts inside the unit.

Ultimately, the solution would be to fit an external oil cooler for the transmission fluid, but otherwise, a close eye on the level of transmission fluid and correct servicing is the key to making the CVT last.

It depends on which engine your Navara has. If it’s a D22 with the 2.5-litre engine, the oil-change capacity is 5.6 litres. If your car has the three-litre engine, it will need 6.7 litres to complete an oil change. If your car is the later model D40 version, the 2.5-litre engine will require 6.9 litres. Those amounts should allow for an oil-filter change as well.

In each case, the recommended oil is a 5W40 semi-synthetic.

This fuse on the battery is there to protect the entire electrical system (and indeed, the car itself) from damage due to a short-circuit. It’s a good idea, particularly in a four-wheel-drive where you might be running a lot of electrical gear such as extra lighting and a fridge.

The problem with this system, though, is that because it protects the whole car, just about any electrical system on the car can cause the fuse to blow.

If the starter motor is the most recent change to the car’s electrical system, then that’s where to start looking for a short-circuit. However, the problem may not have anything to do with the starter motor. An auto electrician should be able to pin-point the problem and fix it without resorting to simply replacing components one at a time.

Unless your B17 Pulsar has the optional manual transmission fitted, then it definitely has a CVT. The reason Nissan (and many other carmakers) still use the old PRND symbols for the gearshift are because that’s what people understand, so there’s no confusion.

In any case, even though it’s a CVT and not a conventional automatic, the CVT still has a Park position, a Neutral and both a Drive and Reverse position, so the symbols are entirely consistent with that anyway.

If your can manually force the shift then there’s probably nothing wrong with the actual gearbox and its mechanicals. Instead, the problem is likely to be an electronic one, perhaps with the speed sensor that tells the computer the car’s road speed and tailors the gearshifts to reflect that. Don’t forget, however, that gearboxes like the Nissan’s with many gears, often won’t select higher gears at low speeds. So if the car refuses to select sixth or seventh gear at urban speeds, that’s possibly just the calibration Nissan has fitted to it.

If this is an actual problem (and not just a characteristic) this is a very new vehicle and would be covered for this sort of problem by the factory warranty.

It could be a fuel problem, but it could easily be something electrical, or perhaps something from left-field such as a blocked exhaust system. Perhaps a sensor somewhere in the driveline is functioning properly until it gets hot and then shutting down, causing the engine to stall. Perhaps you have a bad earth point or loose electrical contact. Maybe the fuel pump is on its last legs and unable to supply enough fuel to keep the engine running.

It’s all a bit of a guessing game, but fortunately, modern cars have on-board computers which detect problems and log them until the car can be scanned. At that point, the glitches and problems should be revealed and you can start to plan how to solve the problem.