Chrysler Sedan Range

I kind of agree with the workshop you used that the problem was a prime candidate to be caused by the TIPM unit. This is basically a fuse-box, relay-box and electrical control unit rolled into one and, when it fails, it can often cause the problems you’re seeing all happening at once. This unit performs a very similar role to the body computer in other makes and models and it’s used to allow various functions of the car to talk to other components and functions.

I understand that the new TIPM hasn’t fixed things, but faults with these units are not uncommon and it wouldn’t be the first time a brand new component has been faulty before it has even been fitted. A good check would be to try the TIPM from a car you know works properly and see if that fixes the issues. Certainly, the random and grouped nature of the faults points to the TIPM in a big way. If it really isn’t the TIPM at fault, I’d start looking for a bad earth somewhere on the car that is causing the mayhem.

But try this test first. Disconnect the battery and leave it overnight. Next morning, reconnect the battery and see if the problem has gone away. It’s worth a try even though the fix may not last indefinitely, but it’s simple and free.

It very much sounds as though the car's alternator has failed. The alternator's job is to charge the battery when the car is being driven. If the alternator is weak or has failed completely, it can't do that and the battery will eventually run out of charge and fail to operate things like the ignition, lights and electric power-steering. Which could entirely explain the problems you're seeing. The illuminated battery light on your dashboard is the other big hint that the alternator has quit on you.

There's a very quick check that can be done to see if the alternator is pulling its weight, and I'd be a bit surprised that a roadside-assistance mechanic didn't perform it as part of jump-starting the car to get you going. The test involves using a volt-meter to see if the battery is, indeed, being charged when the engine is running. A new or reconditioned alternator is the best solution, but only after you've tested the car to see if that's the actual problem.

You could also be looking at a battery that has failed (which, at just 12 months old, we would expect) and can also create the same symptoms you've noted.

It very much sounds as though the car's alternator has failed. The alternator's job is to charge the battery when the car is being driven. If the alternator is weak or has failed completely, it can't do that and the battery will eventually run out of charge and fail to operate things like the ignition, lights and electric power-steering. Which could entirely explain the problems you're seeing. The illuminated battery light on your dashboard is the other big hint that the alternator has quit on you.

There's a very quick check that can be done to see if the alternator is pulling its weight, and I'd be a bit surprised that a roadside-assistance mechanic didn't perform it as part of jump-starting the car to get you going. The test involves using a volt-meter to see if the battery is, indeed, being charged when the engine is running. A new or reconditioned alternator is the best solution, but only after you've tested the car to see if that's the actual problem.

You could also be looking at a battery that has failed (which, at just 12 months old, we would expect) and can also create the same symptoms you've noted.