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A modern automatic transmission is a very complex piece of equipment with a whole bunch of parts that have to be talking to each other for it to work properly. Your best plan of attack is to have the vehicle inspected by a transmission specialist who is familiar with this transmission and should be able to diagnose the fault.

But it sounds like there’s something broken or loose inside that is not allowing the engine’s power to be transferred to the car’s wheels. This could be anything form an input or output shaft, a clutch assembly, torque converter or even the gearsets themselves. Perhaps the fault is in the valve body (the part that actually selects each gear) but until it’s torn down and inspected, you won’t know what’s going on.

The other major cause of a car not moving when it’s in gear is that there’s a broken driveshaft or CV joint. The symptoms can be very similar, so check the whole driveline before committing to repairs.

That’s a pretty comprehensive rebuild of the fuel system, so it’s possible that something that was removed at the time has gone back on not quite the way it was. A shuddering as you slow down suggests that the idle speed is perhaps a touch low. You should be able to adjust the ide speed fairly simply, so the first thing to try is to creep it up, say, 100rpm and see if the shudder goes away.

A mechanic will be able to do this quickly and easily. If that’s not the problem, you need to go back and double check every fitting and fastener to make sure there’s no air or fuel leak that is causing the engine to develop the staggers. Were the new injector seals treated to a dollop of rubber grease before they were installed? If not, there’s a chance that fitting them may have put a small tear in the rubber seal which is now leaking.

It sounds very much like there’s a blow-by problem with this engine. The pressure created by the combustion process is somehow getting past the pistons and into the crankcase, causing the dipstick to leave its tube and blowing oil all around the engine bay.

Blow-by is often caused by worn or broken piston rings or a damaged piston itself. But modern turbo-diesels are also prone to problems with their crankcase ventilation and emissions-control systems which can become full of gunk and not allow the crankcase to breathe properly. At which point, the same symptoms can occur.

A mechanic will be able to do some tests and determine what’s causing the pressure build-up inside the crankcase. If it’s internal wear, a rebuild may be required. But if it’s a build-up of crud inside the emissions-control systems, a manual disassembly and clean might be required. Either way, your car’s warranty might cover you for this, so the Hyundai dealer is your first port of call.