Mazda CX-5 Problems

Proper maintenance is overlooked by many car owners, and it’s a real problem. Modern engines work very hard and have lots of intricate oilways and mechanical clearances that simply won’t tolerate dirty oil. On paper, the car you’re looking at hasn’t had clean oil or a filter change in 20,000km and that’s an awfully long time between drinks. In fact, it’s enough to perhaps give Mazda cause to void any new-car warranty remaining on it, should something mechanical go wrong.

Your best option would be to find another CX-5 with the options and in the colour you want, but with an up to date and complete service record. That’s the best way to prevent any major disasters down the track. The good news is the CX-5 was a popular model, so there should be lots to choose from.

A second-hand engine from a wreck is often a good an option, but only if you can find one that has been tested and comes with a warranty, otherwise you could be replacing your worn engine with an even more worn one. But with a diagnosis estimate of $5000 (and any actual repairs on top of that) I reckon a different workshop would be your best option. Frankly that seems (on the surface) a ridiculous figure and suggests that the workshop in question either doesn’t want your business or is assuming you’re a sucker.

Low oil pressure can be caused by various problems, and a good workshop should be able to check it out and give you a definitive answer on whether it could be fixed or the whole engine replaced. The good news is that the CX-5 is a popular model, so a replacement engine shouldn’t be too hard to track down.

The CX-5 is a well regarded vehicle in the trade with a good reputation for going the distance and remaining reliable. However, that’s a lot of kilometres for any vehicle.

Which means, you must approach this one purely on its individual merits. That starts with the service history. Unless you can find a complete, detailed record that proves the car has been absolutely maintained correctly, you could be taking a huge punt. You’d also want to learn as much as you can about who owned it and how it was driven. For instance, 300,000km of gentle highway running is a lot different to the same distance in city traffic or towing a trailer around.

Even then, it would want to be really cheap as you might easily find it’s getting very close to the end of its useful life. That said, a well maintained, carefully driven CX-5 can cover this sort of mileage, so maybe this one has some life left in it. Maybe.

There does seem to be a bit of a trend here where the Mazda software won’t talk to its owners’ phones. It’s not just a Mazda thing, either; plenty of car-makers using proprietary software receive customer complaints when the software and apps won’t play ball.

Some owners have had success by disconnecting the car’s battery overnight and forcing a reset to factory settings, but in other cases, the refusal to operate correctly is intermittent.

However, it’s up to Mazda to make good on a fix for this. Whether that involves replacing the head unit and screen with a new one, downloading new software or a patch for the existing stuff or whatever the solution is, your factory new-car warranty should cover this. Make sure the fault has been logged at the dealership (so Mazda knows it’s a pre-existing condition) and don’t be afraid to tackle Mazda Australia’s customer service division to see what can be done.

Looking at the popular CX-5 range from 2017 onwards, is the Mazda CX-5 timing belt or chain driven?

There was a big range of engines used in this model CX-5, but the short answer is a very simple one. It doesn’t matter whether your CX-5 has the 2.0 or 2.5-litre (turbo or non-turbo) or even the turbo-diesel engine option, the engine uses a maintenance-free timing chain rather than a rubber toothed belt.

That means, you don’t need to even think about the timing chain, because it should last the life of the engine. A timing belt, meanwhile, needs regular replacement to avoid doing expensive damage to the engine if it should break while the engine was running.

Mazda’s SUV range (CX-5 and CX-8) are popular with their owners and have a good reputation in the trade. Crucially, they’re also available with a turbo-diesel engine, so they fit your criteria on that basis. We’d also suggest you take a good look at the South Korean brands’ offerings (Hyundai and Kia) as these are also highly rated by the trade and those companies have been involved with small-capacity diesel engines for decades, so the technology is pretty well sorted.

It’s interesting that you’ve had a good run from your Holden Captiva as that is far from the experience of many owners and former owners of this particular vehicle. As the Captiva ages it is very likely to start giving trouble, so the best advice is to trade up to a newer vehicle sooner rather than later.

The advice to always idle a hot turbocharged engine down was based on a period in time when turbochargers didn’t have the water-cooled bearings they do now. With modern turbos such as the one in your Mazda, the bearing shouldn’t get hot enough to need idling down (cooling gradually while the engine idles, pumping oil through the turbo bearing).

That said, I would imagine that the Mazda’s engine management software incorporates a line of code that will not allow the stop/start function to operate if the engine was at a high enough temperature that anything (turbo included) might be damaged by shutting the engine down suddenly. That same logic also ensures that the stop/start is disabled if the battery is low on charge, if the air-conditioner is running flat out or any other condition exists that requires the engine to be running. If you’re still concerned, you could always disable the stop/start function manually when you come to a stop after a drive and manually idle the engine for a minute or two before shutting it off. I appreciate mechanical sympathy, and so, obviously, do you, Steven.

Given that it’s just a small piece of stamped aluminium, a car’s compliance plate is a big deal as it confirms that the vehicle to which it’s attached meets all relevant rules and regulations to be used on the street. The laws vary from State to State, but in WA right now, it seems that replacing a damaged compliance plate with a new one is not permitted. Instead, what you may have to do is to apply for an exemption to have a compliance plate fitted to that particular vehicle.

According to the WA authorities (who I contacted about this) “If a vehicle’s original compliance plate is destroyed or lost, it cannot be replaced, however the vehicle owner can apply…for an exemption from having to fit a compliance plate”. There’s a process to be followed including having the car inspected and, if the vehicle is deemed to qualify for the exemption, a note will be made on its registration record to reflect the fact that it doesn’t require a physical compliance plate. This inspection will confirm that the vehicle is legal and hasn’t been stolen or written-off.

My concern is that it’s something you’re going to have to explain to a buyer when you sell the car on. Even though a car with this exemption is perfectly legal and shouldn’t present any insurance hassles, some buyers might be leery of a car without a compliance plate. For that reason, I’d be doing everything I could to preserve the original compliance plate. Unless there was a fire that melted it, even a bent and buckled compliance plate may be able to be straightened and left attached to the car. That would certainly be my preference.

There are literally hundreds of things that could have caused the engine to suddenly stop. It could be anything from an electrical failure to a broken crankshaft to a seized torque-converter to an empty fuel tank. And practically anything in between. The dash lights illuminating when the engine stopped is actually quite normal, as the lights are trying to warn you that something’s wrong (in case you hadn’t noticed).

The fact that it won’t restart is no real clue, either, as you haven’t told me whether the engine turns over and won’t fire, or won’t turn over on the starter at all.

It sounds like you don't really need a big, heavy and expensive 4WD for the type of vehicle you require. Maybe ample ground clearance would be an advantage, but otherwise, as all the driving is on sealed or some dirt roads, a good front-drive (2WD) medium-sized SUV should suffice. This type of vehicle is typically more stable at speed as there isn't a high centre of gravity to contend with - a big safety plus. And while all-wheel-drive might be useful driving out of ruts, on sand or in snow, if none of the these apply, the 2WD's stability and traction control system ought to be enough. 

As a result, we recommend the latest-model (from May 2019-onwards) Toyota RAV4 GX or GXL. It is an exceptionally practical, roomy and robust SUV, with a high level of standard safety features, and big comfy seating. Its 2.0-litre engine is strong, smooth and economical. And you won't have a problem finding somewhere for it to be serviced.

If AWD is deemed essential, then the base Subaru Forester 2.5i is another great choice. Lots of ground clearance, a gutsy 2.5L engine and a soft, relaxing ride. Nowadays Subaru has increased its service intervals from six to 12 months, taking away one of the hassles of running these well-engineered Japanese SUVs.

Finally, the Mazda CX-5 AWD is recommended as well, for it too has a well-sorted AWD system. This is quite a sporty number, with plenty of higher-speed power for effortless overtaking, as well as responsive handling. 

All three SUVs mentioned retail at well under $40,000, and all are enjoyable, capable and reliable choices.