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It might be a case of super-fast overheating, but one would expect the temperature needle to take more than 15 seconds to go from normal to dangerously hot. You could have a broken or faulty gauge, a short-circuiting wire somewhere in the gauge’s wiring or even a temperature sender unit that is giving false readings to the gauge once it gets to a certain temperature.
The first thing to do is work out just how hot the engine really is getting. You can do this with an external temperature gauge or an infra-red thermometer that can be bought for a few dollars. Aim the infra-red beam at the top tank of the radiator, or the top radiator hose and see what reading you get. You should see a value of between 85 and 95 degrees Celsius. At which point, the engine wouldn’t appear to be overheating (provided your new thermostat is working properly).
By the way, the coolant being under pressure when the engine is at operating temperature is perfectly normal. It’s why you shouldn’t remove the cap on the expansion tank when the engine is hot as you can easily get burnt by the escaping coolant. Modern engines pressurise their cooling systems to actually raise the boiling point of the coolant and make their cooling systems more efficient.
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The Ecoboost petrol engine fitted to these cars has been known to give problems, usually in the form of cylinder head faults and oil leaks as a result. The open-deck cylinder block design is often quoted as the cause of these failures, and it’s not inconceivable that such a failure could cause problems with the cylinders or pistons over time.
However, no modern car can be considered acceptable if the engine fails at such a low mileage. Ford is unlikely to consider this a warranty job given the age of the vehicle, but it would be worth talking to Ford’s customer service division to see if there’s any help on offer.
For the record, the cars most affected by the cylinder head failure problem were built between 2012 and 2014, but even if you bought your car in 2015, it could have been made in 2014 and might be one of the affected ones.
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The Territory has a yellow check-engine light just on the outside of the tachometer’s face, around the 2000rpm mark. Perhaps that’s what you saw flickering on. This is probably nothing to worry about as the light immediately switched itself off, suggesting that whatever the problem was, it was a fleeting one.
This light is linked to the car’s onboard diagnostic system which monitors the entire car for faults and then logs them for future problem-shooting. If a problem occurs twice within a certain time-frame, then the check-engine light must illuminate to warn the driver to have the car checked and the problem fixed.
If the light reappears and stay lit up, then you need to act to have the problem found and fixed before it has the chance to do any permanent damage to the car’s driveline. As a side-note, a car with an illuminated check-engine light is technically unroadworthy.
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