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The locally-built Holden Commodore was kind of like Australia's girl next door – we fell for it almost as soon as it arrived in showrooms back in 1978. And just like the girl next door who grew into a beautiful woman, the last Australian-built VF II was the best Holden ever made.
However, the end of local manufacturing meant the final ZB Commodore wasn't from next door, but from the other side of the planet. The German-built model's prices ranged from $15,840 for the Commodore LT to $33,880 for the Commodore VXR.
In a weird way, it kind of works; the original Commodore was basically a reengineered version of the Opel Rekord, so the circle had been completed. After a dramatic decline in sales, the Commodore nameplate was finally discontinued in Australia in December of 2019.
The following Holden Commodore is available with five seats. The LT variant comes with Jet Black cloth seat trim. The RS variant is available with Jet Black cloth and Sportec seat trim. Jet Black perforated leather-appointed seat trim is available on the RS-V, VXR and Calais-V variants. The Calais comes with Jet Black leather appointed trim.
You need to go back to basics here. Check that the battery is connected firmly and that all the connections and low-voltage leads that power and trigger the starter motor are in their correct places and receiving power. Don’t forget to check for earth straps and cables that might have been left off in the reassembly process, too.
If the car is getting power (and the dashboard lights suggest it is) then there’s a problem between the ignition key and the starter motor. Tackle it methodically, checking for power (a test lead or multimeter will be invaluable for this) as you work your way towards the starter motor and you’ll probably find it’s something really simple and basic. Make sure the fuse or relay for the starter motor hasn’t been fried during the gearbox swap, too.
The answer is probably a pretty simple one in terms of what’s causing it. The warning light is to remind you to leave the car with Park engaged. So, the gear selector will have a tiny sensor or micro-switch that detects the selector in the Park position which is then conveyed to the car’s body computer. But if the sensor or switch is faulty or not adjusted correctly, the computer will think the car is not in Park and will light up the warning to alert you. The intermittent nature of the fault is what makes us think this is the case, combined with the fact that a quick flick of the T-bar button is enough to make the warning disappear.
So much for the cause, because the fix might be a bit more complicated. Depending on where the sensors and switches live, you may need to disassemble more of the car than would seem necessary to fix such a seemingly small problem. An auto electrician should be able to make sense of it.
A manifold leak will throw the engine’s fuel-air ratio out the window and can cause poor cold running and hard starting. The old school way of checking for a vacuum leak is to get the engine idling and then spray either carburettor cleaner (or something else flammable) around the intake area of the engine. If the engine suddenly picks up revs, you almost certainly have a vacuum leak. But be careful, spraying flammable stuff around a running engine comes with a fire risk.
The other thing to check would be the throttle body and the sensor attached to it that tells the computer how much throttle has been applied. Again, these can start to give false readings, throwing the fuel-air mixture out.